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Friday, June 28, 2019

Historical Dining in Paris


We did a lot of research on places to eat and things to try before our trip to Paris. But as with any good plan, we had to learn to wing it. After partly joining a walking tour which began in the Latin Quarter, we ended up near Boulevard Saint-Germain. While figuring out where we were in the map, we found Le Procope, the oldest café in Paris (6th Arrondissement) which opened in 1686. Of course, we had to give it a try (I read it from somewhere!). We managed to get in without a reservation and got a table in the second floor. 

Le Procope, Paris
I ordered the Risotto (from Michelin 3* Chef Frédéric Anton) while the rest of the fam had the Plat du Jour. Grandma had cheese and trout with almonds while the rest got duck terrine and roasted chicken.

My risotto came with crispy artichokes and a fillet of Gilthead bream. I have to say I have had better risotto. It was not exactly creamy as advertised and the bream could be more tender. 

Risotto and bream from Le Procope, Paris
The rest of the dishes were not bad but not to die for, either. The duck terrine was good (albeit not as pretty as the ones we saw in the gourmet food hall of Galeries Lafayette). 

Duck Terrine, Le Procope, Paris
The chicken was not leaps and bounds better than the ones we have had from the neighborhood deli.
Top: Trout; Bottom: Roasted Chicken, Le Procope, Paris

Service was ok and took as long as what we had expected. Still, overall, it was a thrill to find ourselves dining where Rosseau, Voltaire, Napoleon Bonaparte and Victor Hugo (even Benjamin Franklin--among others) dined.

Another over-a-century-old, historic restaurant we tried was the Le Bouillon Chartier when we were over at the 9th Arrondissement. 

Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
It was founded in 1896, in a former train station concourse. The long Belle Époque dining room is classified as a Monument Historique (designation given to some national heritage sites in France). The servers are dressed in the traditional rondin, a tight-fitting black waistcoat with multiple pockets and a long white apron.
We were lucky to get in quickly for lunch. The restaurant is obviously quite popular as there were cordons for lines from the courtyard to the sidewalk outside. Tables are shared between strangers. We shared ours with a gentleman who seemed like a regular.

Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
Hubby and DD#1 had steak with pepper sauce while DD#2 and I had Veal stew. Grandma had frankfurters. We noticed that we never got asked how we wanted our steak done in all the restaurants we have been to. They were all done perfectly. The service was good and quite fast. We had our meals in no time at all! It did not look very appetizing but it was good. Everyone enjoyed their meals. 
Pepper steak and Veal Stew, Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
The bill was written directly on the disposable paper tablecloth and the price was quite reasonable. It was a nice meal which fueled us for the shopping that awaited in the Grand Magasin (Galeries Lafayette and Printemps).

Another 4-star rated place we checked out was the Café A la Fontaine over at the 16th Arr. The staff spoke English quite well and was nice enough to allow us to share our mains. Having had a snack just recently, we weren’t too hungry but we wanted to get some dinner. DD#2 and Hubby shared a Steak Tartare while DD#1 and Grandma shared a Tagliatelle with squid ink and bream.

Having Italian in Paris
I took another stab at Risotto (I know, I know, not French, but I did not fancy anything else on the menu) but this time with prawns. I should’ve learned but again, the risotto wasn’t amazing. Actually, it was more like paella. Flavours were good, though. Overall, good food, cozy ambience, and good service. We also shared a Mixte platter of charcuterie and cheese which we all enjoyed.

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