MAMMA MIA !! our 10km hike from Fira to Oia, Santorini

 

Fira to Oia Hike

Before I start, let me clarify that I quote Mamma Mia as an expression of our experience, not because it was set in Santorini. The movie was set in another island, Skopelos.

Santorini was majestic and beautiful. We got to appreciate its beauty through our 10-km hike, a true challenge to this mamma.

By the time we got to Santorini and the start of our hike from Fira to Oia, we had already clocked in way over a hundred thousand steps over the previous days. We had hiked to the top of the Acropolis, Cynthos, got lost in the streets of Fira and even hiked to the beautiful Heart of Santorini. We were feeling tired. Ok, so now that I’ve got that disclaimer out…it took us 5 hours to complete the average 3 hour hike. Well, we were strolling and taking lots of photos—this was what we kept saying, every time another group of hikers overtook us on the trail.

Fira

Anyway, we were aiming to catch the sunset at Oia and I wanted some time to go around Oia so we started at about noon, at the height of the heat. But as it was so windy, we did not feel sticky nor did we overheat, even if we wore long-sleeved shirts to protect us from the sun. It was the best hike we had ever taken. It was not the most difficult, but it was definitely challenging, with the trail changing from cobbled path to paved roads and then gravel and stone. 

gravel path on Fira to Oia hike

we have to go through that?!

trails at Fira to Oia hike

There was hardly any shade, which was a challenge in the noon-day heat. It was also hard for me to keep my hat on because it was very windy. There was enough signage to make sure you were going in the right direction and the views were just amazing. Anywhere you point your camera, it was just beautiful. Walking through the hotels along the caldera and passing many, many churches on the trail was just something we would not normally have on any hike. We passed by the beautiful towns of Firostefani and Imerovigli.

boutique hotels @Imerogivli

 We skipped (and thankfully we did) the side hike to Skaros Rock which would take us an extra hour (so they say. This would probably take us two, with our pace).

Skaros Rock

We got to Oia at 5pm, tired and not finding any public washrooms. The one we did find was closed. So, we couldn’t drink so much as well. We had planned to have dinner back in Fira (taking the bus back) after watching the sunset. In hindsight, we should have just eaten in one of the pricey restaurants, used the WC and watched the sunset relaxingly. The most popular place to view the sunset was…well… popular. It was so crowded, we really didn’t want to squeeze in. There were a couple of cruise ships that I saw docked so that didn’t help with the crowds. If you had the time or inclination, you can also book a catamaran sunset cruise. And while it was a great experience, we wished we could have enjoyed the destination as much as the journey. Our feet were not happy (nor were our bladders) but all in all, it was an experience I would not trade off. The journey was very memorable and the sunset was gorgeous.

Oia

Sunset @Oia

Sunset @Oia

Things to do and how we got around in Mykonos

 

Saint Nikolaos of Kadena

We were booked near the Kalo Livadi Beach in Mykonos. Our hotel was close to the best beach among those we visited, but it was far from other places we wanted to explore—about 30min drive to main town and over a kilometer walk to the nearest bus stop. So, here’s what we did:

Delos tour - we got a Delos tour which included hotel pick up/return. Of course, this cost us an extra Eur50, but we enjoyed the convenience of not having to secure a cab (very few in Mykonos) or managing the timing of the public bus (only about hourly, which would totally screw up your plans if you missed it). From the port, Delos island is only about a 40-minute boat ride. We explored this UNESCO site for about 3 hours, marveling at the structures and even flooring that had been preserved. We started off doing the most difficult part, which was climbing Mt. Cynthus. While only under 400 ft, it is the highest point on the island and had the most wonderful views. The museum was unfortunately closed the time we were there, where they kept the original Naxian stone lions. However, the Terrace of the Lions, were still an amazing sight to see.

Temple of Aphrodite @Delos Island

path to Mt Cynthus @Delos

Terrace of the Lions @Delos

Explore Chora – we took advantage of a late hotel return after our Delos tour and explored the Mykonos Town or Chora. It was fun to get lost in the maze of streets filled with boutiques, souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. 

Sunset @Kastros

In Chora, you can also see many beautiful landmarks such as Little Venice, the Windmills, Panagia Paroportiani, among others.

Little Venice @Mykonos

Windmills @Mykonos

Panagia Paraportiani

Explore Ano Mera – we had lunch at Kalammmakia where I got kebabs and fried cheese. 

Fried Cheese and Kebabs @Kalammmakia

Then we checked out the town where the Tourliani monastery was located

Tourliani monastery @Ano Mera

and Gyzi castle ruins which dates back from the 13^th C Medieval times.

Gyzi castle ruins @Ano Mera

Gyzi castle ruins @Ano Mera

Beach- hopping – we got a quad/ATV to get around the island.

one of the quads to rent in Mykonos

 We went to several beaches for a whole day and here’s our take:

 Paradise and Super Paradise beach – party/club beaches. Sun beds are more pricey but more elegant.

Super Paradise beach

lounge at Paradise Beach

Paraga Beach – had a lot of rocks and the sand was grainy/pebble-y. Quite busy.

Agrari Beach – beautiful, quiet beach. Waves were more intense and the waters are deeper (drop is a bit more abrupt).

Agrari beach

Kalo Livado Beach – our favourite. The beach was long and wide and the area was quiet and relaxed. The sand was more fine and waters are shallower.

There were so many other beaches to explore and each one has a different vibe. Of course, you can spend days just being on the beach. For all of these, the waters were super clean and crystal clear. You can actually see little fish swimming by you.  

Hubby and I liked the more relaxed vibe of Mykonos (compared to Santorini), even if getting around was challenging. We have seen many beautiful beaches around the world and the beaches of Mykonos rank high! Add that to having a UNESCO site, (and once a sacred site) Delos, 40 minutes away and a beautiful town to get lost in, Mykonos is definitely one of the Greek islands to visit!

Get me to the Greek! Fantastic eats in Athens, Mykonos and Santorini

Kastros in Mykonos

As with all our travels, scouring the city for the best eats is critical. We would really go out of our way to check out a place to eat. Here are the best ones we had in Greece:

In Athens, I had to eat at the place tracked down by both Anthony Bourdain and Jamie Oliver -their photos are on the walls! Fortunately, the Varvakios Market, was near our hotel and while signage was in Greek, we were able to make it to the end of the meat market and find Oinomageireio Epirus. This tavern is a very simple canteen with soups, casseroles and other daily specials ordered at the counter instead of a menu. 

Oinomageireio Epirus

I got the Giouvetsi which is beef stew with Orzo. It was very tasty and hearty, a wonderful comfort food.  

Giouvetsi @Oinomageireio Epirus

Hubby got their specialty, patsas, which is a tripe soup. It is not the most appetizing (nor photogenic) of dishes and I don’t like tripe very much but hubby said it was good. He added chilli flakes and skordostoubi (vinegar marinated with garlic cloves) which made it taste even better.

Patsas @ Oinomageireio Epirus

We also had to have seafood so we went to Atlantikos. The alley seating was plentiful but the place was packed. This was not a surprise as the food was great and affordable. We had fried calamari and grilled big shrimps. Food was fresh and very, very tasty. I can eat there every day!

Fried Calamari @Atlantikos

Grilled Big Shrimps @Atlantikos

In Mykonos, hubby booked weeks in advance for a table at Kastro’s. While it is first-come, first-served with minimum order requirements for the alley end table and private balconies for the best sunset views, we managed to get one of the tables at the alley for a beautiful sunset dinner.

Sunset Dining @Kastros

I got the grilled sea bream which was cooked perfectly. The fillet flaked off the fork and was wonderful with the bouillabaisse sauce.

Grilled Sea Bream @Kastros

Hubby got the Lamb Rack with pistachio crust drizzled with rosemary and orange sauce. Delish.

Rack of Lamb @Kastros

Of course, the sunset was just beautiful. Many a couple took photos at the alley as we ate our dinner.

In Santorini, we had an amazing dinner at Alati, which was right in our hotel, Vedema. The ambience in this 400-year old winery cave turned restaurant was so romantic. The chandeliers were lit by real candles and the décor was modern and very elegant. The service was superb and the food was just divine. 

Alati in Megalochori

We had a delicious calamari for appetizers and they also served shrimp tartare complimentary.

Calamari @Alati

Taking off from previous, proven winners, we again had sea bream and lamb. They were even better than the ones we had in Kastro’s. Now, that may be the wine (as we had quite a few glasses coming from a wine tasting in Canava next door) talking or it may be the ambience, but everything was just perfect. We also managed to catch the last live show of the season which provided beautiful music while we dined.

wine tasting @Canava

Sea Bream @Alati

Lamb @Alati

We also went to the best rated restaurant in Santorini, Metaxi Mas. It was a bit out of the way at Exo Gonia. It was tricky to get there on public transit. We practically had to climb a hill! However, the food, service and ambience were worth the trip. And it had a nice view!

This time I had the grilled octopus and hubby had chicken and rice. We started with a delicious white eggplant salad with feta cheese and cherry tomatoes (white eggplant and cherry tomatoes are a must try in Santorini!). Now, Grandma will be the first to say that I do not really eat eggplant. But boy, I have never eaten or enjoyed as much eggplant as I did in Greece. I loved this salad! It was so refreshing, especially with raki!

White Eggplant salad @Metaxi Mas

Well, I don’t think I have to say much about octopus. It was just beautifully grilled and well-seasoned.

Grilled Octopus @Metaxi Mas

Hubby got the chicken and rice. How can you go wrong with perfectly seasoned crispy chicken.

I totally see why this was the best-rated restaurant in Santorini. Well-deserved accolade.

My Big Fat Greek…meals – enjoying the food and drinks of Greece

Lamb Kebap

Hubby loves Greek food. In and out of food courts, he will almost always gravitate towards the Greek joints. Needless to say, we had countless souvlakia through our entire stay in Greece. Thankfully, we did manage to get to try other dishes.  Here are some of my recommendations:

Souvlakia (plural of souvlaki) – provided us with the most affordable meals. Under Eur10 for the two of us!

Pork Souvlaki

In Athens – Savvas (near Monastiraki Square):  pork gyros souvlaki was very tasty. They also had great baklava

In Santorini – Lucky’s (in Fira, just around the corner from the bus station)

2.Baklava – our dessert practically every dinner. This is what will make us big and fat, for sure! But maybe, the Mediterranean diet we had would nullify the calories?

Kataifi and Baklava

In Athens – we tried the ones in Beneth but we liked the ones they had in Savvas. Not all baklavas are created equal.

In Mykonos -- Koutsothanasis Bakery near Ano Mera had yummy baklavas. Great service as well!

Bougatsa – phyllo dough with custard or other savoury filling.

Bougatsa

 In Athens – the custard bougatsa at Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki (corner of Iroon square in Psyri district) was much more enjoyable than the cheese/spinach one. Try to catch them making the dough inside!

4.Moussaka – like eggplant lasagna :P I especially enjoyed the moussaka at Maiandros Restaurant near the Monastiraki station

Moussaka

5.Giouvetsi - Greek beef stew with orzo.  Loved this hearty dish with tender beef, orzo pasta, and a rich tomato sauce which we tried in Oinomageireio Epirus inside the Varvakeios market.

Giouvetsi

Drinks: As you may have read from my other posts, hubby does not drink very much. I also don’t have a high tolerance for alcohol, but I do enjoy a glass (or two) of wine. We had a few drinks in Greece and here are some you may want to try:

1.       Greek coffee/Ibrik – we got some Ibrik coffee from Mokka where they put the ibrik in hot sand before serving. It is a medium strength coffee. Wait for the coffee ground to settle after you pour before drinking.

Ibrik

2.       Ouzo – thankfully, George, our walking tour guide, implored us to not drink this straight. This clear spirit turns milky when you add water. It is an anise-flavoured apertif. I don’t care much for anise but the water really does make it taste better.

Ouzo

3.       Raki –is actually (supposedly) the national drink of Turkey. Similar to Ouzo, it turns milky white when mixed with water. This went well with meze during one of our meals!

Raki with meze

4.       Metaxa – I managed just to get a taste of this and this is by far my favourite among the spirits! Perfect for after-dinner and taken neat, this Greek brandy has nice sweet notes which I like.

5.       Assyrtico – The most popular indigenous white variety from Santorini. It is mostly dry but goes perfectly with Parmigiano-Reggiano (which our sommelier recommended).

Assyrtico and Vinsanto

6.       Vinsanto – there is much debate on the Italian Vin Santo (from Tuscany) and Vinsanto Greek (short for “wine of Santo (rini)”) which I will not get into. Hubby and I both liked the Vinsanto (we are partial to dessert wine!) paired with Kariki cheese which ages in hollowed out gourds. YUM.