Sweet Treats and Eating in Vienna

Sacher Torte at Cafe Sacher, Vienna, Austria

Coffee and cake is essential in a Viennese experience and Sacher Torte (one of the most famous Viennese desserts) was invented by an Austrian. So we tried to hit two birds with one stone and had coffee and cake at Café Sacher. Many have said that the quality of Café Sacher’s Sacher Torte has deteriorated. Also, it was quite expensive. But, I have never met a cake I didn’t like so that did not stop us from giving this a try. The Sacher Torte was made up of two layers of cake with apricot jam in the middle and covered with chocolate icing. It was not very moist, but I also did not find it as dry as others have declared. The dollop of whipped cream was needed, though, and the cake was perfect with Verlängerter (Café Americano).

We also got some chocolate from Demel, said to be the Empress Sisi’s favourite chocolate shop. Sadly, my hips do not agree with only subsisting on cakes and Viennoiseries. So, here are other local dishes we had:

• Schnitzel (veal or chicken, flattened and deep fried)—we had a couple of schnitzel meals. One from a chain, Wienerwald which not bad for a fast food. We had another in Lubella in Kärntner Straße which was just ok. Easy enough to make or find somewhere else as this is available in most restaurants there.

Wiener Schnitzel in Vienna, Austria

• Leberkas--like a bologna sausage in a loaf. They slice it for you and it is sold by weight. We had some from Leberkas Pepi. This one was surprisingly good. Service was fast and it was a great value. I will have to look for this back home!

Leberkas from Leberkas Pepi, Vienna, Austria

Ok now back to sweet treats:

• Mozart balls (marzipan balls, also with pistachio and nougat, covered in chocolate)! I really liked these treats which we got from Salzburg! Of course, this can be bought in Vienna and even in Prague—we even saw this in the Prague airport.

Mozart balls from Salzburg, Austria

• The Neapolitan wafers (from Manner) were also yummy. It was hard to stop eating these bite-sized, crunchy wafers layered with a creamy chocolate and hazelnut spread. 

I realized that I had more of the goodies than actual meals, even if we already chose to skip the apple strudel. But hey, we were on vacation so indulge we did!

Highlights of Vienna

Belvedere, Vienna

If there was one thing I could do over in our trip, it would be to spend more time in Vienna.  The old or inner city was so majestic with its impressive structures and wide-open spaces, it needed to be enjoyed more thoroughly. We tried to squeeze in as much as we could. Below are our must-see’s:

1. Hofburg Palace—we were not able to explore much outside the Vienna old city. And since we had to see one of the palaces, we picked the principal residence, the Hofburg palace (instead of Schönbrunn, the summer residence) of the royals. We went to the see the Silver collection, Sisi museum and the Imperial apartments. It was very interesting (I’ve never seen so many plates and cutlery!) and we learned a lot about the history of the country and its rulers.

Vienna, Austria

Hofburg palace near the Spanish Riding School, Vienna, Austria

part of the Silver Collection, Hofburg palace, Vienna, Austria

2. St. Stephen’s Cathedral--loved this Gothic structure with its colourful tiled-roof. The altars and side chapels were as grand, in Baroque-style. 

St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna, Austria

inside St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna, Austria

Near the Cathedral, on Graben’s shopping area, you can find

• The Holy Trinity Plague Column—a 60-foot, gilded, Baroque pillar erected as a memorial to the end of Vienna’s worst plague in history

Holy Trinity Plague Column, Vienna, Austria

• the Loos’ Loos—the public toilet built by Adolf Loos which was opulent as far as public toilets go.

Underground Public Toilet, Vienna, Austria

3. Belvedere—we only went to the Upper Belvedere since I wanted to see Klimt’s “The Kiss.” The grounds were expansive and the palace was just so stately, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They had a pretty good collection of Austrian art dating from the Middle Ages. Of course, we spent the most time ogling Klimt’s works.

gardens of the Belvedere, Vienna, Austria

inside one of the stately rooms of the Belvedere (Upper), Vienna, Austria

Try to check out:

• Naschmarkt is Vienna's most popular market, but we weren’t able to visit this as they closed at 730 pm and are also closed on Sundays. Many places in Vienna are still closed on Sundays.
• Another attraction we chose to forego, but many people visit, was the Spanish Riding School featuring the Lipizzaner stallions and their orchestrated moves.
• High mass—the music is amazing during high mass. See the schedule for St. Stephen’s and Augustinerkirche. We went to the mass at Augustinerkirche as we also wanted to see the Herzgruft (Hearts Crypt), burial chamber housing the 54 urns containing the hearts of members of the Habsburg imperials. They only open this to the public (or more of allow the public to take a peek) after high mass on Sundays. For that Sunday, the music was from Mozart’s Missa Brevis in G. Absolutely wonderful! 

Augustine church, Vienna, Austria

Habsburgs hearts in urns, Augustine church, Vienna, Austria

• The Ringstrasse tram goes around the Vienna Ring Road (the circular grand boulevard that surrounds the old town/inner city). With a pass, hop on and off to see the most important buildings in Vienna. We started at the Vienna State Opera House, which was another majestic structure (Neo Renaissance). Others include the Parliament, City Hall, university and museums. 

Tram, Vienna, Austria

Note

The Vienna State Opera and Vienna Boys choir are off season during summer (July and August). There are other concert options, though. Also, if you are in Vienna during December, try to catch the Christmas market. Gute Reise!

The hills are alive in Salzburg!

biking along Salzburg, Austria

We only did a day trip to Salzburg from Vienna given the limited time we had. It would have been better to spend the night there since it was a 2.5-hour trip from Vienna. But we were able to make it work--we spent 7 hours in Salzburg and 5 hours travel. We took an early train to Salzburg and joined a bike tour. Fraulein Maria’s bicycle tour took us around Salzburg--Sound of Music style, of course. We looked at the different spots where the movie was shot and we passed by places the tour buses cannot really navigate. It was a fun 3.5-hour bike tour and we covered over 8 miles (almost 13 km!). We took solace in the fact that we did not know anyone in this city as the tour guide took out a speaker and had us biking to the tunes of “Climb Every Mountain,” “Do Re Mi,” “Lonely Goatherd…” you get the picture. We saw the Nonnberg Abbey, Mozart bridge, Residence Square, Leopoldskron Palace and Lake, Frohnburg Palace, and the gazebo (Liesl and Rolfe’s) which was now in Hellbrunn gardens.

Horse Bath Fountain, Salzburg, Austria

Nonnberg Abbey, Salzburg, Austria

Residenzplatz, Salzburg, Austria

Leopoldskron Palace and lake, Salzburg, Austria

Gazebo at Hellbrunn, Salzburg, Austia

Frohnburg Place, Salzburg, Austria

Salzburg was such a beautiful city and hubby declared it as one of his favourites. The eyes feasted on Baroque structures among mountains, bridges and the Salzach river. The city was very picturesque. There were also modern structures as commissioned by the government such as the man on the golden orb.

Man on the golden orb, Salzburg, Austria

We checked out the market stalls and had chicken and sausage wraps, near the Makartsteg Bridge with the love locks. 

Makartsteg bridge with love locks, Salzburg, Austria

We also walked along the Mirabell gardens and the area of the Mozarteum/Marionette theatres before we headed back to the train station. 

Mirabell gardens, Salzburg, Austria

Mirabell gardens, Salzburg, Austria

We could spend another day here and biking is truly the way to go!

Daytripping in Bratislava

Old Town tours in Bratislava

From Budapest, we went for a day trip to Bratislava before heading to Vienna.  It was about a 2.5-hour train ride. We dropped off our luggage at the left luggage office and got some bus tickets to head into the old town. The pace in the city was more relaxed and apparently, folks come here from the busier Czech Republic and Hungary for a break from the busy life. We joined our first free walking tour where you only tip the guide at the end. So, they give you the best tour to entice you to tip them more. We were very happy with the Be Free walking tour in Bratislava. We learned so much about Slovakia—its history, some words, food, places to check out.  The city was quaint with its cobbled streets and in the Old Town, you will find gold crowns to mark the coronation path.

Plaza in Bratislava

Hotel Carlton, Bratislava

view of the Bratislava castle

streets of Bratislava

Hviezdoslav square, Bratislava

Some photo-ops:

• much-photographed statues—"Man at Work,” “Schone Naci,” and “Napoleon’s Army soldier”

"Man at Work" statue, Bratislava

"Schone Naci" statue, Bratislava 

• Michael’s gate—amazingly preserved from medieval times and one of the oldest buildings in the city

Michael's gate, Bratislava

• the beautiful blue Church of St. Elisabeth

Church of St. Elisabeth, Bratislava

We had lunch at the Slovak Pub and it was probably one of our best meals in our trip. We tried Slovak classics such as Bryndzové halušky (potato dumplings topped with sheep’s milk cheese and bacon) and Garlic Soup (Cesnaková Polievka). Coupled with a mug of beer (which is cheaper than water in these parts), the dishes were very tasty and satisfying. I have to learn to make these!

Halusky at Slovak Pub, Bratislava

We also tried some Bratislava Rolls filled with walnut (there is also another one filled with poppy seeds)

Bratislava roll

and got Medovina (honey wine, usually taken during Christmas as a warm drink).

It was a nice day to spend in Bratislava—to learn more history, experience a new culture and have a delicious meal! From Bratislava, it was just another hour and a half train ride to Vienna.

My favourite foods in Budapest

Hubby and I love trying out the local treats and cuisines of the places we visit. Here are some of our favourites:

• Kürtőskalács—we tried the one in Molnar’s. It is a Hungarian pastry made by wrapping a dough on something like a rolling pin. It is then glazed and baked by rotating over heat.

Kürtőskalács, Budapest

Molnar's Kurtoskalacs, Budapest

• Goulash—a meat stew seasoned with paprika. Hubby’s favourite version of goulash is the Hungarian. It is very hearty and the flavours are full, just with the slightest hint of sweet/spice. We especially liked the meat stew we got in Belvarosi Disznotoros.

Meat stew in Budapest

• Dobos Torta—we had one in Gerbeaud (one of the most celebrated cafes in Budapest, celebrating over 120 years). Dobos Torta  is a sponge cake layered with buttercream and a caramel top. 

Treats from Gerbaud. Caramel top is the Dobos Torta (Budapest)

• You may also want to try langos (fried dough) on which they put toppings (like pizza)—usually savoury but they also have sweet. Karavan (beside Szimpla Kert) offers a good variety, including kürtőskalács. Of course, Hungarian sausage is very good. Try some kolbász (a spicy sausage made with paprika).

Karavan street food, Budapest

Other things to do in Budapest

Matthias church, Budapest

When you are done hitting the major attractions in Budapest, here are other things you can do:

1. Check out a ruins bar. These are bars/drinking joints inside a dilapidated building (ruins) and made “safe” once again. Furnished with mismatched furniture, a cross between a junk yard and a thrift shop, these bars are vibrant and cozy. We went to Szimpla Kert and got a couple of drinks. They have a separate bar for wines/beers, cocktail, hot food, and even shishah. I tried a Pink Fluffy while hubby got a Piña Colada. 

Szimpla Kert Ruins Bar, Budapest

2. Cruise the Danube River—there are many companies offering cruises—some themed (wine and beer cruise, folk dance cruise) and some are even hop-on hop-off. The public boat, part of the BKK transportation, is also a nice way to get around. You can have a glimpse of the Margaret island and the Hungarian Parliament Building on one side and the Buda castle on the other.

cruising the Danube river, view of the Hungarian Parliament Building

3. Go Shopping—stroll (or shop) along Vaci utca where you can find the designer and popular brands. The Great Market Hall (their largest and oldest marketplace) has produce, souvenirs and a food hall! Speaking of shopping, look for some secret boxes, liquor (Pálinka brandy and Tokaji wine), paprika and foie gras!

Wanderlusting in Budapest

Buda castle and Chain bridge at night 

Someone once told me Budapest was crowded and dirty. From the Jewish quarter in the Pest area where we stayed, I can understand why that would be the impression. Still, there are some parts of Pest which had their own charm—the magnificent Parliament building is in this area. The Buda area on the other side of the Danube, however, was the one which surpassed all expectations. It was quite beautiful especially at night.

Here are my must-see’s and do’s in Budapest:

• Thermal Baths—we went to the Lukacs Thermal Baths, which was not very touristy (so not as pretty) and was included in the Budapest Card that we got. These baths have been in existence since the time of the crusades. This was one of the most relaxing experiences for us and something we could do again and again. The lockers were co-ed/mixed so hubby and I got to go together. The place was a maze but we managed to find the indoor pools (the outdoor pools required swim caps). Bring your own towels and slippers so you don’t have to rent these at the baths.

The pools were marked according to temperature—22 (immersion pool), 32, 36 and 40 degrees. I loved the 36-degree pool and I found it the most relaxing. Hubby liked going in the 40, then dipping in the 22. Those temperatures were too extreme for me.  The baths are said to be medicinal with waters containing minerals that help cure a myriad of illnesses. Some visitors, after successful recovery, have placed marble plaques along the walls. The baths did wonders for our jet lag and our aches and pains. We wished we had time for at least one more trip!

Lukacs thermal baths in Budapest

Lukacs thermal baths in Budapest

•  Buda area—this was the most beautiful area for us. While we walked the Castle district back and forth a few times, the Buda Castle shuttle did help us get around (we no longer took the funicular going up). 

one of the many beautiful structures in Buda side, Budapest

• The Matthias church with its glaze-tiled roof and the Fisherman’s Bastion behind were really striking. 

Matthias Church, Budapest

Fisherman's Bastion, Budapest

• Of course, the Buda castle which houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum, was the grandest structure there.  We squeezed in 1-2 hours each in the gallery and museum and went on a 2-hour walking tour. 

Buda Castle, Budapest

Going down this castle on a hill, we crossed the Chain bridge, connecting the Buda and Pest areas. As the sun set, the buildings were lit. It was the most beautiful panorama I have seen. Actually, it has become my favourite.

Chain Bridge, Budapest

• Pest area—as I said, this has its own charm. Here you can find the Hungarian Parliament building which was so beautiful, all other seats of government structures that I have seen paled in comparison. We didn’t have a lot of time but the tour in the Hungarian Parliament came recommended. Tours were on different languages per time slot so if you miss English (it gets sold out), the only available times left to fit your sked may be in a different language.

the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Danube

It is also in this area where you can find the Great Synagogue (the largest synagogue in Europe and second largest in the world), 

Great Synagogue, Budapest

St Stephen’s Basilica, and several modern historical monuments/memorials such as the Communism monument and the Shoes on the Danube. 

Vigado in Budapest

St Stephen's Basilica, Budapest

Shoes on the Danube, Budapest

This city is definitely worth visiting.

Tip:

The Budapest card was worth it for us. We were able to use it for local transportation, museum admissions, walking tours, Buda castle shuttle, and the thermal baths.