Bacalhau your way: Culto Ao Bacalhau, Porto

Culto Ao Bacalhau, Porto

We had been quite fortunate to treat ourselves to a few nice meals in Porto and Arcade. Hubby and I went to Michelin-guide restaurants to savour local specialties.

In Porto, the first place we went to was Culto Ao Bacalhau at Mercado Bolhao.

We got an early seating for dinner and were greeted warmly by the host/server. It was quite a task to choose how we wanted our bacalhau, but we decided on dishes which we both enjoyed.

Bread basket with tapinades at Culto Ao Bacalhau

We started with Bolinho de Bacalhao com Salada de Feijao Frade (salted codfish fritters with black eyed peas salad). It set us up nicely for the other bacalhau dishes to come! We were encouraged to spoon the peas onto the fritters and the result was lovely. The black eyed peas tossed in vinaigrette paired very well, giving some heartiness and acidity to the crispy fritters. 

Bacalhau fritters with black eyed peas salad at Culto ao Bacalhau

I chose the Bacalhau à Zé do Pipo, which had the cod boiled in milk then oven-baked with onions, mashed potatoes, and mayonnaise. According to AI, this dish is named after its creator, known as Zé do Pipo, who owned a restaurant in Porto in the ‘60s and won a national cooking contest with this recipe. It was presented table-side and plated beautifully. And it was delicious, warming my belly like a fancy home-cooked meal. The cod was flaky and less salty, after being boiled in milk. The baked mashed potatoes had a slight crunch on the edges and the onions and olives balanced the flavours very well. If this recipe was true to Zé do Pipo’s original recipe, then it really was a winner!

Table-side service at Culto ao Bacalhau

Bacalhau Ze do Pipo at Culto ao Bacalhau

Hubby chose Filetes de Bacalhau com Arroz de Tomate e Coentros (now that was quite a mouthful!). They also served the dish table side with the rice in a cast iron pot. Of course, I had to try hubby’s dish too! The cod fillets were nicely cooked and matched perfectly with the tomatoes and coriander rice. 

Table-side service at Culto ao Bacalhau

Bacalhau fillet with Tomato and Coriander rice at Culto ao Bacalhau

Crunchy churros with cinnamon sugar, on the house, ended our meal 

We couldn’t have chosen a better place to try these traditional bacalhau dishes. Service and presentation were great and the food was just divine. 

Sweet Spanish treats

Churros from La Quinta

Of course, my account would not be complete without a few sweet treats! Hubby and I enjoyed these for both dessert and snack. In Galicia (and specially in Santiago), we had to try the Tarta de Santiago (almond cake or Tarta Almendra). The moist cake is made with ground almonds, sugar, eggs, lemon zest, and liquor. It is usually designed with the cross of St. James. We tried this in a couple of bakeries (instead of the ones sold in souvenir stores) and we immediately loved them. They were moist and the nutty flavour was complemented well with a hint of lemon zest. I will definitely try to make this at home!

Tarta de Santiago

Another favourite, which unfortunately, I do not think I am capable to make at home, is chocolate con churros. Growing up, I have always enjoyed this fried choux pastry dough treat, dipped in rich, thick, hot chocolate. Yummmmm....So, I definitely indulge whenever I get the chance. Churros were available in food truck churrerias and even in a table along the path of the Camino! In Santiago, however, we did a back to back visit to La Quinta, where the chocolate con churros was very good! Deep-fried yumminess dipped into good-quality chocolate was worth coming back for! Can they not open a location in Canada?! Theirs was definitely one of the best churros I have had and I know will crave going forward.

Churros from La Quinta

We were also able to try other treats, all due to lucky timing!

We were fortunate to be able to try the fish-shaped almond biscuits sold by the nuns at the Convento das Clarisas in Tui. They were chewy yet delicate and the nuttiness was perfectly balanced with the sweet-- a sprinkling of sugar on top. The "store" is based on the convent's hours and as well, has to be timed when goodies are still available at the time you are passing through. (I know timing is key because I missed some almond cakes from one of Santiago's monasteries, which were sold out by the time I got there!) 

Fish-shaped almond cookies from Convento das Clarisas in Tui

We also made it to the Festas do Cristo in O Porriño (held for a week in September) where we were able to enjoy watching a parade and a marching band, and get some Confiteria Ancla Hojaldre/Hojaldrita from a street stall. This festival staple of crispy puff pastry covered in syrup has become a new favourite of mine. It was quite difficult to eat just one in every sitting. My only regret was getting just one pack!

Confiteria Ancla Hojaldre