Sweet Spanish treats

Churros from La Quinta

Of course, my account would not be complete without a few sweet treats! Hubby and I enjoyed these for both dessert and snack. In Galicia (and specially in Santiago), we had to try the Tarta de Santiago (almond cake or Tarta Almendra). The moist cake is made with ground almonds, sugar, eggs, lemon zest, and liquor. It is usually designed with the cross of St. James. We tried this in a couple of bakeries (instead of the ones sold in souvenir stores) and we immediately loved them. They were moist and the nutty flavour was complemented well with a hint of lemon zest. I will definitely try to make this at home!

Tarta de Santiago

Another favourite, which unfortunately, I do not think I am capable to make at home, is chocolate con churros. Growing up, I have always enjoyed this fried choux pastry dough treat, dipped in rich, thick, hot chocolate. Yummmmm....So, I definitely indulge whenever I get the chance. Churros were available in food truck churrerias and even in a table along the path of the Camino! In Santiago, however, we did a back to back visit to La Quinta, where the chocolate con churros was very good! Deep-fried yumminess dipped into good-quality chocolate was worth coming back for! Can they not open a location in Canada?! Theirs was definitely one of the best churros I have had and I know will crave going forward.

Churros from La Quinta

We were also able to try other treats, all due to lucky timing!

We were fortunate to be able to try the fish-shaped almond biscuits sold by the nuns at the Convento das Clarisas in Tui. They were chewy yet delicate and the nuttiness was perfectly balanced with the sweet-- a sprinkling of sugar on top. The "store" is based on the convent's hours and as well, has to be timed when goodies are still available at the time you are passing through. (I know timing is key because I missed some almond cakes from one of Santiago's monasteries, which were sold out by the time I got there!) 

Fish-shaped almond cookies from Convento das Clarisas in Tui

We also made it to the Festas do Cristo in O Porriño (held for a week in September) where we were able to enjoy watching a parade and a marching band, and get some Confiteria Ancla Hojaldre/Hojaldrita from a street stall. This festival staple of crispy puff pastry covered in syrup has become a new favourite of mine. It was quite difficult to eat just one in every sitting. My only regret was getting just one pack!

Confiteria Ancla Hojaldre

Regional dishes to try in Minho and Galicia

Zamburiñas in Galicia

Even a pilgrim has to eat! While some of our meals were humble (read: protein bars or cold empanadas, outside of menú del día/set meal of the day), we did try some regional dishes along our Camino.

In Ponte de Lima, we tried Arroz de Sarrabulho, a traditional Portuguese dish made with pig's blood and pork, cooked like a stew in a rich broth. While it was unappetizing to look at, being brown-black, this thick rice dish with intense flavours, was one of the best meals we've had. Originating from the Minho region, the Sarrabulho we had was served in two parts: the sarrabulho rice itself, which was a saucier, risotto-like dish, and "Papas de Sarrabulho," which had pork and blood sausage pieces served with potatoes. When it was served, Hubby and I thought we will never be able to finish the dish. Maybe we had ordered too much. But with the first taste of the hearty, homey, arroz, we knew we chose well. Soon enough, we were scraping the end of the bowl. It was such a treat to have a warm meal that you can actually feel hitting your stomach and with each bite, there was a deliciousness that made you want to go back for more. 

Arroz de Sarrabulho in Ponte de Lima

In Padrón, we had to try these Spanish small, green peppers, which originated in the area. This popular tapa is prepared simply by blistering the peppers in hot oil with sea salt. Padrón peppers known for their unpredictable heat, where some are mild and others are surprisingly hot. It was like having a "Spanish roulette" with each bite. The mild ones had a slight sweetness and the surprise, hotter ones were not really tongue-burning. I was so happy to have caught them in season.  They were so easy to eat, and actually fun not knowing if the next bite will be hot! I am not usually fond of peppers but these Padrón peppers have become one of my favourite tapas.

Padrón peppers

As a seafood-lovers, we needed no convincing to try Pulpo a la Gallega (Galician-style octopus). Served in a wooden plate, the fork-tender octopus was just slightly seasoned with salt, pepper, and paprika, cooked in olive oil. I can actually finish a full ration (usually tapas for two) without trouble. 

Pulpo a la Gallega

The symbol of the Camino, scallop, was something we had to try, of course! The Galician Scallops, also known as Zamburiñas, will have a hard time disappointing me, in any preparation! A smaller variety, this sweet, tender mollusk, prepared in a tomato and paprika sauce (salsa gallega), originates from Galicia and is a most delicious tapa! It is perfect with sangria :)

Galician Scallops, also known as Zamburiñas

Cheers to Portugal and Spain--drinks we enjoyed

Port wine barrels at the cellars of Real Companhia Velha

Hubby and I are not really beer-drinkers, but I am known to enjoy a glass of wine (or two). However, as many folks know, wine and beer are usual drinks to have with your meal, especially in Europe. Even pilgrim meals include wine or beer, so when in Rome (or Spain or Portugal)...

In Porto, before we set out on our Camino, we booked a Port winery tour at Real Companhia Velha at the Vila Nova de Gaia side. It is the oldest wine company in Portugal (over 265 years) so with all the choices for places to do wine tours, we decided to come here. And we really enjoyed this tour! We saw the cellars, got more info about the different types of port wine, got a bit of history and saw some centuries old bottles, which were actually covered in some sort of "safe" fungi. The tour was good and the tasting was even better! Hubby and I decided we liked the Tawny. Though we did not get a chance yet to try anything beyond 10 years, this will, of course, be the new goal!

quite the aged wines at Real Companhia Velha

Port Wine Tasting at Real Companhia Velha

In Portugal, along with cacchorrinhos (Portuguese hotdog sandwiches which were SOOO good!) that we enjoyed at Cervejaria Gazela, we discovered Super Bock for the first time. We had been seeing this brand logo all over the place and when we finally tried it, it made us converts! Maybe we acquired the taste of beer (finally), but we really liked the light, crisp taste of the draught. Now we understand why some folks enjoy a glass or two during meals or at the end of the day. 

Cacchorrinhos with Super Bock draught at Cervejaria Gazela

In Ponte de Lima, we tried a red Vinho Verde and the more famous white version in Rubiaes. This Portuguese wine originated in the Minho province and has a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) or Controlled Destination of Origin. So, of course, we had to try it in the actual area! We really enjoyed the light, crisp, "young wine" which had vibrant, fruity notes. Those we have tried had a subtle fizz, which was wonderfully refreshing. 

red Vinho Verde at Ponte de Lima

white Vinho Verde at Rubiaes

And, as we were in the spirit :) of trying out food and drinks usually only available in the area we were in, we had to try the Queimada in Santiago. Queimada is a punch from Galicia, Spain, made with aguardiente, sugar, citrus peel, and coffee beans, set ablaze in a ceremony with incantations to ward off evil spirits. We booked a Queimada experience to cap our trip. Without taking to heart the words of the ritual, and especially after a religious pilgrimage, it was a unique experience and the drink was quite good! I am wondering if I can make this drink at home, without having to set things on fire to reduce the alcohol and without having to recite spells.

Queimada at Santiago

So, naturally, one of the first things I searched while waiting for our flight home was to check out LCBO if we have access to these drinks! I am hoping the ones we have available will bring back all the wonderful memories of the trip. Cheers!

A most wonderful meal in Arcade: Restaurante Veiramar at Arcade

Restaurante Veiramar at Arcade

 We decided to take off the pilgrim hat for lunch while we were in Arcade. After all the walking we had been doing, we allowed ourselves a treat since I found in my research that there was a Michelin-guide restaurant in Arcade. 

And since they were open earlier than most lunch places, we considered it a sign to go (wink wink!). 

We arrived a little after 11am and were seated at a table by the window, with the nice view of Rio Verdugo, by Matilde beach. We went straight for the mains as we really did not have the time to have a long lunch. We got Arroz con Mariscos (seafood rice), which was good for two. 

Dining with a view, Restaurante Veiramar at Arcade

The Arroz came in a big clay pot with a generous servings of mussels,shrimp, scallops and clam. The seasoning was balanced, not too salty. Hubby actually prefers this to paella as the dish is more saucy, more stew-like. This delicious dish warmed our bellies and delighted our taste buds. I would definitely come back to try the other seafood dishes (especially those coming from the live tank by the entrance), if we ever find ourselves back in the area.

Arroz con Mariscos, Restaurante Veiramar at Arcade

Located before crossing the Medieval bridge of Pontesampaio, Veiramar does not take you far off the path and actually allows for a different view of the bridge and the river when you go to rejoin the route. It was a beautiful (and delicious!) side-trip in Arcade. Well worth the extra time we took for lunch. 

Food, Friends and Flamenco on a Friday night: couples’ night out at Tapas at Embrujo

One Friday night, one of our couple friends invited us to join what was initially their intimate dinner. Along with another couple, we made it a couples’ night out—a get-together we do not have often.  We headed off to Greektown (beside Rodeo) to check out this Spanish restaurant, Tapas at Embrujo.

We got there at 7pm, just in time for the 7:30 show. We got a pitcher of Sangria while we figured out what to get. Our friends got a variety of tapas—from traditional jamon to some reinvented dishes like duck confit and crayfish. Hubby and I decided to get Paella de Mariscos (could not resist!) and some JamonSerrano. 

Sangria

While we expected the paella to take 40minutes, the rest of the tapas took a bit of time as well to get to our table.  Service was very friendly, though. So, between the show and the good humoured staff, we did not mind the wait. We also knew Chef Jose Salgado was preparing the food to order.

Jamon Serrano

Our friends claimed the tapas were good. The duck seemed a bit too fatty for me but the servings for the calamares and crayfish were substantial. The Serrano that Hubby and I ordered was also nice, though I’m sure the Iberico would have been better. 

Solomillo con tres salsas (Black Angus Sirloin strips with 3 sauces)

The paella did arrive after our friends were pretty much done with their tapas. It was a good sized dish and sufficiently packed with mussles, squid and shrimps. The only thing was that it was quite “wet.” I prefer having socarrat (toasted bottom). I would say that the paella did not wow me, but it was not bad. It cannot compare to the ones we’ve had in Valencia. 

Paella @ Tapas at Embrujo

 Dessert of Crema Catalan was just so so. It did go well with Hubby's poached pear, though.

Crema Catalan and Poached Pear

The Flamenco show was energetic even with just one Flamenco dancer/singer and a guitarist. The stage could not accommodate a bigger show. While the Flamenco dancer did not have the castanets and fans I was expecting, she gave us some pretty good clapping and stamping! To do all that dancing, clapping and stamping while singing was already quite a feat! The guitarist was outstanding, too. It was not quite the show we saw at Sevilla, but it was entertaining nonetheless. The music, dancing and singing were good all around. We also caught a bit of the next show at 9:30 and there was another singer, making the performance a trio. They had more formal outfits this time, and the songs were more dramatic.

Flamenco show @ Tapas at Embrujo

There is a minimum charge of $30 per person on show nights, but they have other specials as well. With tapas costing a minimum of $8 (and as much as $18 for the Iberico board), 6 tapas and drinks are enough to satisfy and will make you hit the minimum tab. You get to enjoy a show, too. 

The night had all the right ingredients for fun—good food, good friends and a show. And, it was a Friday night. What better way to set up a weekend? Salut!

Wanderlusting Mama’s top ten eats (and drinks) in Spain

As you may have deduced, we did a lot of eating when we went to Spain. I have written about all of them in previous blogs. Here is a summary of food and drinks that I highly recommend you try:

1. Jamón Ibérico—enjoy these thinly sliced on their own, with bread and cheese or with olives. These are also good with some honeydew melons.

Jamon Iberico

2. Tapas—try different kinds. I love gambas al ajilo (garlic shrimp), champignones (mushrooms), cordero (lamb), and many more! As these are small servings, you can try many different kinds. Each order will cost anywhere from €3 to €6 depending on where you are

Tapas

3. Paella—as I had mentioned, this is my absolute favourite Spanish dish. Cooked in a paellera, the orange colour of the tender rice comes from the fresh tomatoes and saffron. I particulary like the marinera version as I love seafood. However, I will eat any kind of paella-- Valenciana (with meat) and mixta (mixed).

Paella

4. Arroz Negro—this is like a black paella, literally meaning black rice. It is rice cooked in squid ink and usually served with squid and shrimps. It doesn’t look too appetizing but it is delicious!

Arroz Negro

5. Pesquaditos fritos—a traditional dish from Southern Spain, and literally meaning fried small fish, it is a delightful crunchy snack.

6. Chopitos—fried, baby cuttlefish, which are fresh, very lightly battered, and quick-fried. It is nice to eat even on the go!

Pesquaditos Fritos and Chopitos

7. Pimientos de Padrón (or Roasted Galician peppers)—these small green peppers are served roasted with a dash of salt and brushed with oil. They are not too spicy and only had the slightest kick. Once you pop one of these into your mouth, it is pretty hard to stop.

Pimientos de Padron

8. Churros con chocolate—this fried pastry dough is best eaten freshly cooked. Some eat it plain with just a dusting of sugar but I prefer dipping it in some rich hot chocolate. I can eat this anytime!

Churros con Chocolate

And to drink
9. Sangria—this fruit punch comes in many varieties. Commonly, it contains red wine, some chopped fruit, soda and juice. It is perfect for summer and can surely be appreciated even by non-wine lovers.

Sangria

10. Horchata de chufa—this white, milky drink (made from tubers of the nut sedge plant) is best taken ice cold. As I have recounted in my previous blog (Valencia), the taste was like a cross between soy milk and some sort of yam smoothie. It is another refreshing and popular summer drink, a good alternative to frozen lemonade.

Horchata de Chufa

I hope I haven’t made you too hungry. These may not be readily available where you live, but there are restaurants which would have some version of these. Some of these are also pretty easy to do at home as well where you can have your own rendition of these Spanish delights. Recipes are all over the internet—believe me, I checked already!

If you are fond of pastries, I highly recommend mazapan. And for those who love to cook, don't forget to get some olive oil and also saffron from La Mancha!

¡Buen provecho!

Montserrat: a must visit if you are in Barcelona

 

We went to a spectacularly beautiful Benedictine monk mountain retreat about one hour from Barcelona. The religious importance combined with the breathtaking views of Montserrat (literally, serrated mountain) was simply remarkable. You can either take an organized tour or take a train and funicular on your own to get there.

the Funicular

For hubby, Montserrat was the highlight of our trip. Devotees, rock climbers and tourists flock to this mountain to see the views of the countryside and admire the amazing rock formations. Apart from the hearing Boys Choir which Montserrat is famous for, people go to there to venerate the Virgin of Montserrat (or La Moreneta), one of the black Madonnas of Europe. It was also the image upon which Ignatius of Loyola laid down his sword before later founding the Society of Jesus—a story close to the heart of my true-blue, Atenean friends.

Statue of St Ignatius of Loyola

The explanation we were given behind the black hands and face of La Moreneta was that the image had prolonged exposure to candle smoke or had a chemical reaction caused by a varnish used as a paint sealant. Since then, the statue was repainted black by successive generations of restorers.

La Moreneta

The basilica itself was beautiful with its gilded altar and wrought iron. Atop sits the Virgin of Montserrat which can be approached by the visitors by climbing some stairs to get to her altar.

The Basilica of Montserrat

Votive candles can also be purchased and lit in one of the many caverns.

Outside, you can hike on one of the many trails or visit the gift shop selling religious items and souvenirs. There was a monastery, of course, a cafeteria, and a museum including works of prominent painters such as El Greco, Dalí, Picasso and more. This place surely will meet various needs—whether it is a hike, retreat, views, shopping, art, religious devotion, and even food.

In the weekends, they have a farmer’s market where local farmers sell their produce. Hubby and I got some Mató de Montserrat (Catalan fresh cheese made from cows' or goats' milk, like cottage cheese) with honey for our snack.

Mató de Montserrat

Montserrat is definitely a must-visit if you are in Barcelona.

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The highlight of our trip: Peñiscola and Barcelona

On our way to Barcelona, we stopped by Peñiscola to view the ancient castle of the ‘Spanish Pope’, used in the film El Cid. It was the first time we saw the coast in this trip (we were mostly inland) and what a lovely sight it was! We got our feet in the sand and in the waters (though we didn’t have time to swim or sunbathe) and it was just wonderful!

After our walk around the castle and more pictures of the waters, we checked out the narrow streets and shops. Most of the shops along the beach, though, sold beach wear and accessories. It may not be a shopping mecca but the views were just beautiful. Hubby and I wished we had more time to explore Peñiscola, but we were off to Barcelona so we were also eager to get going. 

The castle served as the Pope's residence

and was used as a set in El Cid

Statue of the Spanish Pope

Upon arriving in Barcelona, we immediately went on a city tour to enjoy panoramic views from Montjuïc. From this hill, we saw the famous Sagrada Familia of Gaudi, the Cathedral and the weird-looking pickle building (Torre Agbar, supposedly copied from London’s Gherkin building) which housed the water authority. You can also see the harbor from here which provided some fantastic photo ops! We drove to the top but you can also reach the top of the hill via funicular and gondola rides.

views from Montjuïc

Then, we went to the Sagrada Familia, one of the most famous buildings in Spain and its most visited. This time, we weren’t prepared and did not manage to secure a ticket to get inside. There were long lines of the folks who were trying to get in and did not plan for online tickets as well. Needless to say, our packed schedule only allowed us to be in awe of this masterpiece (monstrosity to others) from the outside. It was still unfinished despite having been under construction (following Antonio Gaudi’s plans) for over 130 years.

Sagrada familia

It was a very interesting structure. I don’t particularly hate it but I do not love it, either. What I liked about it, though, was its complexity, its history, and the rich detail of the nativity and passion facades. These facades depicted scenes from the birth and the passion and death of Jesus Christ. The locations of these facades in Gaudi’s plans were so amazing in the sense that it took into account the rising and setting of the sun to give each figure a play on light and shadow as appropriate for the scene. So, while the structure itself was not as beautiful as the Gothic cathedrals were for me, it was still magnificent.

In the evening, hubby and I took the subway down to the Port Olimpic. As with Seville, many structures in this city were built for World Expos or the Olympics. Anyway, at the port, there were so many bars and restaurants, it was so hard to pick where we would get our dinner!

Port Olimpic

We ended up at the La Barca del Salamanca. The place was quite big and had sample platters of what they had available. Hubby and I got a set menu which consisted of tapas, main dish, dessert, drinks and coffee. This time, hubby got the Paella Marinera or seafood paella and I got the cordero or lamb, another Spanish specialty. We had tapas of jamón, pescaditos fritos (fried small fish), chopitos (fried baby squid), mussels, shrimp, Galician-Style Octopus, and olives along with vino tinto (red wine) for hubby and cava (Spanish sparkling wine) for me. With all of that, you can imagine that by the time the main course arrived, we were almost full! It was a tough job, but we did what we had to do—finish the food! J Dessert was Crema Catalana which was really a Spanish speaking (or should I say, Catalan-speaking) crème brulée . After all of that eating (clean plates, mom!), we were given some green apple liqueur which was typically used as a digestive. It did come with some more pastries so we weren’t quite sure the digestive would do the trick. As well, after the coffee, we had quite enough food in our stomachs to last us until lunch the next day. It was our best dinner in Spain! And breakfast and lunch…

We decided to walk off all those pounds by going to see the spectacular performance of water, music and lights of the Magic Fountain near Plaça d'Espanya. It was not Bellagio but it was different and fun. The place was lively and folks were there to have a good time. In the other cities we visited (with the exception of Granada), we usually tried to make it back to the hotel before it gets really dark. However, we left the fountains only about an hour before midnight. We took the subway and yet we felt safe in this city at this hour. It was a lovely evening, indeed.

Fountain near Plaça d'Espanya

Okay, okay, I know we swore we were too full, but the next day, we couldn’t resist having a light lunch of tapas—calamares (fried squid rings) and roasted Galician peppers with more cava at the La Boqueria Market. We were there so how can we not have something to eat?! It was a lively market, quite like Toronto’s St. Lawrence market, filled with stalls selling meat, seafood, and sweets among others.

La Boqueria Market

Outside, we walked along the very vibrant Las Ramblas, a long street packed (and I mean, PACKED) with thousands of people soaking up the atmosphere. There were many souvenir shops and name-brand stores as well as kiosks of local crafts. It was an experience in itself. At the north end is the Plaça Catalunya with even more shopping—among which is the El Corte Ingles with 7 floors of shopping!

Las Ramblas

There were so many places to visit in Barcelona—beaches, hills, beautiful cathedrals, grand fountains and interesting Gaudi structures (there were a couple of others apart from the Sagrada Familia that we saw). 

It was like being in a different country (with its own language, Catalan which reflects their move to separate from the rest of Spain). A country to visit has been checked off my bucket list (and many things checked off my foodie list). Nice!

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