Dining in Bogotá

We did a LOT of eating in Colombia. Here are the top spots that some locals recommended. And while most, if not all, are chains, we concur.

1.       Crepes and Waffles: we did not quite expect this to be a fantastic place! The atmosphere was casual and the food was delicious. The sweet and savoury crepes were good and the dessert was phenomenal. My girls shared a Calamares al ajilo (squid in garlic sauce) crepe which was absolutely creamy. I ordered a Mexicano (like a taco crepe) while hubby had Boloñesa con Queso y Salsa de Champiñones (meat with cheese and mushroom sauce). We tried each other’s orders and all were truly tasty! Portions were generous, too! But while we almost had no room for dessert, the menu was simply too inviting to resist. The place was not only known for their crepes and waffles, but also for their helados (ice cream) which could very well hit the headlines as well. I had a vanilla ice cream masterpiece with chocolate sauce and hubby shared his arequipe (dulce de leche or milk caramel) and banana ice cream waffle. Dessert was divine.

Mexicano crepe

Banana and Arequipe waffle

2.       Parrilla Patagonia: Notably one of the best Argentenian restaurants in Bogotá (as it is the only one we have tried :P haha). We went there for the anniversary of my parents-in-law and what a wonderful dinner it turned out to be. We were advised that the portions were big, so our party of eleven shared a couple of appetizers and 4 main courses. We started off with some cheese and chorizo with our red wine. Then came the huge platters of perfectly grilled, tender pieces of beef, lamb and pork. Hubby was a bit full from all the eating in prior days, but that did not matter. Once he got a bite, there was nothing he could do to stop. The chimichurri sauce was a perfect complement. We preferred the spicier (mas caliente!) Argentenian vs. the milder Colombian version. We also enjoyed the chorizo so much, we got an extra order for dessert!

 

3.       Sabor del Carbon (y algo mas): Located in downtown Bogotá, we had the impression that it was the usual grilled meat place. We found out later on that they had other traditional Colombian food as well. This was our first time to try the traditional soup of Ajiaco Santafereño and Bandeja Paisa. Ajiaco is a chicken and potato soup with corn on the cob. On the side, you get a cup of rice and avocado slices which you add to the soup. It was deliciously hearty and the kids loved it. Bandeja Paisa, meanwhile, is a typical Colombian dish served on a large platter. And it did require a large platter as it contained over ten ingredients—beans, rice, ground meat, pork rind, fried eggs, plantain, chorizo, blood sausage with lemon, arepa and avocado on the side (surely I am missing some spices or other ingredients!). It was scrumptious with portions big enough to last us until a late dinner! We enjoyed Colombian cuisine! Now, where can we find this in Toronto…

Ajiaco

Bandeja Paisa

4.       El Corral: my Venezuelan friend claims they have the best hamburgers in the world, and they were, indeed very, very good. On our last night in Bogotá, our hosts took us to El Corral. Hubby is fond of hamburgers, so while he was food-fatigued, he was quite excited to try it. We shared a Corral Mexicana (obviously, I am quite fond of Mexican food). Our quarter pounder burger had cheese, refried beans, quacamole, and lettuce topped by some salsa. The girls shared a quarter- pounder Corral Queso (cheeseburger)—which had left-overs that hubby and I finished. We also got to taste their version of the Philadelphia cheese steak and it was also delicious. Fantastic burgers, indeed! 

5.       OMA café: after our burger dinner, we set out to look for a dessert place. Most places were closed at past 10pm on a Monday night, and we ended up at OMA café. It was an excellent choice! OMA (meaning grandmother in German) was supposedly the first gourmet coffee shop in Bogotá and it later branched out into café restaurants. They have a wide-enough selection of helados y postres (ice cream and desserts). I got a Moka Crunch and hubby got a Passion chocolate. The presentation was lovely and the ice cream was delicious! The girls shared some arequipe ice cream which they devoured in a couple of minutes. I also gave in and let them have a taste of chocolate-covered coffee beans, one of the best-selling products of the café. This perfectly capped our dining experience in Bogotá—awesome desserts and great coffee.

Andrés Carne de Res: a different dining and clubbing experience

When we learned we were having dinner in Andrés Carne de Res, I was quite excited, having viewed their unique website. But the website (or the great reviews) was not enough to prepare us for this bar/restaurant. I cannot even remember when hubby and I last went to a club--definitely not in the last 7 years. Andrés Carne de Res was more than a club or a restaurant. It was a castle of an artist’s junkshop!

We went to the Chia location about 40 minutes away from Bogotá. The host was agitated that we had brought kids along. We thought that the restaurant converted into a club at about 10pm (by which time we would have been done with dinner and could take the kids back to our apartment). But at 9pm, the party was already on! So, we got the kids registered and they were given wristbands for identification (Bogotá is a stickler for ID’s!).

The interiors were just amazing! Junk items from bottle caps to tin cans transformed into wonderful, colorful art were too much for our eyes to devour. The lights, shaped like hearts, delighted my little girls. There were cows in tutus, water craftily packaged in milk bottles, and forks holding up sauce bottles hanging from the ceiling.--awesome details if you ever got your eyes to focus on one thing.

The menu was a giant book filled with delicious, though on the expensive side, dishes. Our group started with Mixto de Acompañamientos (mixed appetizers) which included arepa (traditional South American bread made of corn), potatoes and yummy baked plantain (variety of banana)  with cheese and guava jelly. Then, we shared a Filete de Trucha (trout fillet) and an order of Tres para Dos (mixed grilled meat). Our grilled meat platter consisted of tenderloin, rump steak and chicken breast. These went perfectly well with my Club Colombia Roja beer. Our bill came in a tin box complete with a magnifying glass and a flashlight—in case you started to doubt your eyes with too many zeroes (at that time, the exchange rate was 1US$=1,700 pesos).




a different way of presenting bottled water

 


our appetizer platter

 


our mixed grilled meats

 

What club experience would be complete without dancing? So, with our wide-brimmed woven hats, we set off for the dance floor for some merengue. And, who was to say that this was not a place for kids? My girls had a blast—even if it was just to watch mommy and daddy, and grandma and grandpa dance!

It was great to party in Colombia. Our hips did not lie!

Side trips in Boyacá: Chiquinquirá, El Infiernito and Ráquira

Basilica de la Virgen de Chiquinquira

On our way to the wedding in Villa de Leyva in Boyacá, we passed by what is considered the religious capital of Colombia—Chiquinquirá. It is the home of the Basilica de la Virgen de Chiquinquirá where the miraculous painting of the Virgin of the Rosary resides. This painting from the mid 1500’s was made on woven cloth using pigments from soil and flowers. Left unattended, it was ruined. After over 20 years, it was rediscovered and later on found to have restored itself. The shabby painting was transformed with no more holes or tears practically overnight. In the 1800’s Pope Pius VII declared the Virgin of Chiquinquirá the patroness of Colombia. And, in 1986, Pope John Paul II also came to pray in this basilica. When we saw the painting, it was still quite faded, but we were still able to see the image. It was awesome to have seen this miraculous painting!

Miraculous painting of the Virgin Mary

A coffee cart at the plaza

The kids played at the lovely plaza outside the basilica before we headed to El Infiernito (“little hell”), just on the outskirts of Villa de Leyva. It was called such by the Spanish conquistadors who believed it was the site of diabolical worship of the Muisca (indigenous people of Colombia). It was interesting to note that the Muisca were such an advanced culture that the alignment of the standing stones seemed to have been used to anticipate solstices and equinoxes, and determine what time of the year it was to help them with harvest. While the kids found the stones interesting, they were quite ready to move on to the next attraction. The adults, in the meantime, had quite a good laugh taking juvenile photos of the phallic structures.

Another town we visited (but this time, after the wedding) was Ráquira. Literally translated as “City of Pots,” it is the home of wonderful pottery and hand-woven products. We entered store after store to marvel at the vast variety of pottery and souvenirs. Hubby and I regretted that we couldn’t bring home some beautiful crafts as they were too heavy or bulky to lug home. The vendors did try to appeal to tourists of all backgrounds, because along with the traditional Andean pottery, one can find the somewhat lewd ones as well (which I will no longer even try to describe).

Pottery at Ráquira

We had a wonderful Sunday lunch at the Restaurante Cazuelaz Boyacenses beside the plaza. The interiors were quite interesting with various pottery, vintage appliances and even giant insects on the ceiling. The kids had ajiaco (Colombian potato soup with chicken and corn wherein you add avocado, rice and sour cream) while hubby and I shared a churrasco (grilled beef). The beef was quite bland without the absolutely yummy chimichurri sauce. We drenched our thirst with local fruit juices of lulo (like a small orange) and mora (Andean blackberry). Ahhhhh. A perfect shopping trip capped by a wonderful lunch.

having some ajiaco

Lulo and Mora

Soaking up the charm of Villa de Levya

  

Duruelo at Villa de Leyva

Our ultimate destination for our trip to Colombia is Villa de Leyva. This preserved colonial city was rustic and quaint with its whitewashed houses among the mountains. We stayed at the lovely Duruelo resort decorated with a lot of gardens, hand-crafted furniture, and antiques.

With time to spare on the day of the wedding, hubby, the kids and I set off for a short walk to the Plaza Mayor (main plaza). This was also where you can find the restaurants serving international dishes and where we had dinner the previous night. Walking on the streets made of stone was not easy on the feet (neither is driving on it), but it sure looked pretty! We checked out the many stores selling first-class goods—clothing, jewelry, furniture, paintings, sculptures, pottery, hand-woven crafts and of course, souvenirs. It can be on the expensive side for some stores, but the quality was good.

streets of Villa de Leyva

 

dinner at the plaza

After we had our fill of window-shopping (okay, we got a few things), we decided to go on a horse-back ride. The kids were very excited, especially since they did not get a chance to go on one in Chicaque. So, for an hour, we rode horses and explored the villages nearby. The view was awesome and the houses were just enchanting. How I wish we could have brought those back home! We fell in love with doors, windows and little pots of flowers set on posts.

 

Before heading back to Duruelo, we decided to skip the fancy (and expensive) restaurants and went for lunch at the local market. We ordered a platter of lomo (pork tenderloin) with potatoes, plantain (variety of banana) and chicharrones (crispy pork rind). Truly a no-frills dining experience, we each only had toothpicks to eat our meal. 

We just had enough time to rest and prepare for the beautiful afternoon wedding. It was a perfect setting for such a memorable occasion.

Cerro de Monserrate: an icon of the city of Bogotá

At the heart of Bogotá lies a hill, Monserrate. It rises 3,152 metres above sea level where a church was built and devoted to “El Señor Caido” (Fallen Lord). Access is via funicular, a cable car (Teleférico de Monserrate) or by climbing, which is the preferred way of pilgrims and sportsmen. We were told that the record getting to Monserrate's top by walking is 18 minutes—this is definitely trickier than climbing the CN tower which is only 553 metres!

The view from the funicular

We took the Transmilenio (bus transit system) to the foot of Monserrate. After getting tickets, we lined up for the funicular ride to take us to the peak. The funicular had wide windows and glass ceilings allowing us to view the beautiful landscape. A few steps upon disembarking, the Stations of the Cross began. This activity marked yet another one of our hikes up a mountain.  We should be getting used to this by now!

One of the Stations of the Cross

The church sits at the top where you can also see a wonderful panoramic view of the city of Bogotá. It was a simple structure but, nonetheless, beautiful.

As with other tourist destinations, the summit had restaurants and souvenir shops. Since it was almost noon, we bought some snacks of empanadas and pastel de pollo (stuffed pastries) at the cafeteria to tide us over until lunch. Apparently, line-ups were not quite respected—ironic or typical for a place of pilgrimage? As it started to rain, I pulled out the kids’ raincoats from the backpack only to have folks cut in line to order. Good thing we were not too hungry! I was hoping, however, that my irritated stare would translate well in Spanish.

After saying my prayers (forgive me for getting annoyed at the folks who cut in line and delayed getting food for my kids!) and admiring the fantastic view, we made our way down the mountain. The Swiss-made cable car, Teleférico de Monserrate, then took us down in about 4 minutes and made for another picturesque ride.

The view from the top

Monserrate is not only known for being a part of the Bogotá cityscape, it is also symbolic of the faith of the people, rising above all. We have noticed that religion is very much ingrained in the culture. In pretty much every town we have visited, the attraction highlight includes a church (there is even a small chapel at the El Dorado airport terminal!). And, if there was one thing I can choose to represent Bogotá’s mountains and importance of faith, it would be Monserrate.

The legend of El Dorado at Laguna de Guatavita

After our visit to Catedral de Sal, we set off about one hour away from Zipaquirá, for Laguna de Guatavita where the legend of El Dorado is said to have originated. This is the lake where the Muisca (indigenous people of Colombia) conducted a ritual which is widely believed to be the basis of the legend. The story is more elaborate, but simply put, a ceremony took place on the appointment of a new ruler wherein he would be covered in gold dust and then dive into the lake from a raft. Gold and jewel offerings were also thrown into the lake by the worshippers. El Dorado is supposedly the name of the tribal chief but has evolved to mean the place, the lost city of gold. Conquistadors heard of this ceremony and made various attempts to recover the treasures within the lake. 

As if to check if our knees, lungs, and willpower would hold up to the test of high altitude, we went on yet another hike to get the view of the lake. It was also steep but the trail was mostly paved by stone steps.

Our companions and the kids were way ahead of us. Hubby and I must be getting old. Along the way, we saw some bright, red mushrooms and beautiful flora. The view of the town just kept getting better and better.

We were rewarded at the top by a fantastic view of the lake. It was well worth the climb! What has made it more magical is the legend behind it.

A few dozen pictures later (of all angles we could possibly take), we prepared to go down. We have come to realize that climbing down is harder on the knees than going up. We took a deep breath and began our descent. Somewhere behind the trees, my kids called out, “Mommy, Daddy, are you coming?!”

A jewel in the salt mines: Catedral de Sal in Zipaquirá

A visit to the Catedral de Sal (Salt Cathedral) of Zipaquirá is an attraction not to be missed. This underground Roman Catholic church (about 48 km outside of Bogotá), built within the tunnels of a salt mine, was unlike any we have seen.

In the 1930’s,miners had carved a sanctuary in this halite structure for their daily prayers, asking for protection to the saints before starting to work. 

The underground church was built inside this active mine in the 1950's and dedicated to Our Lady of Rosary, Patron saint of miners.

We opted for a tour in Spanish, with our companions as translators. As we entered the cathedral (which is technically not a cathedral since it does not have a bishop), we were awed by the solemn atmosphere and ambient lighting of violet, blue and pink hues. We were advised not to take pictures yet but only during the walk back as the energy fields inside the mine drained batteries quickly. It was so hard to resist! I risked a couple of shots despite knowing we were going back the same way. The shots were just waiting to be taken! The chapels carved in the tunnels for the 14 Stations of the Cross culminating at the main nave were simply dazzling. The kids were fascinated by the lights but were a bit bored after the 10^th station.

The tour ended with a 3D movie of a robot (in an attempt to appeal to the kids and have a modern spin) which took us through the history of the mines from the Muisca to the current extractions of salt. The whole tour took under an hour plus another 10 or so minutes for the movie. After the movie, we walked along the tunnels where there were works of art on display, a coffee shop (of course!) and some souvenir stalls reminding us that this is a tourist spot indeed.

Another attraction was the mirror of water (brine, actually) whose surroundings are illuminated to reflect on the static water. The result was a fascinating optical illusion of swimming in a vacuum underground. The kids were drawn to this marvelous illusion and I kept urging them to move away. I wondered if I should have stopped to pray at each of the 14 stations just to make sure that they did not fall over!

After we had left the mines, we decided to eat lunch while on a train ride for a short tour of Zipaquirá. It was a nice break from the dark and cold, and a rest from our 2km walk inside.

The Catedral de Sal is amazing. Where else in the world (except in Poland) can you find such a magnificent piece of architecture where you can actually taste the walls?! Well, we did not miss the opportunity. The kids (and adults) did have a sample!

A walk in the clouds: hiking at Chicaque Parque Natural

 I guess it is safe to assume that we enjoyed our Chingaza hike enough that we decided to go for another hiking trip at Chicaque, located in the municipality of San Antonio del Tequendema (thirty minutes outside of Bogotá).  We went here to go hiking and horse-back riding. We began our excursion walking among the clouds in this high-altitude cloud forest. With over 18km of trails, we took one of the easier trails from the entrance to Refugio (the restaurant and cabin located in the heart of Chicaque) as we were traveling with children. Needless to say, at one point or another, DD#2, our 4-year-old, had to be carried for stretches.

We trekked about 3km downhill in what were the most difficult trails we’ve done with the kids! I hounded my very adventurous 6-year old (DD#1), who was almost always leading the pack, and reminded her not to walk too fast. The trail was slippery and steep and would make for a dangerous fall (and besides, I couldn’t keep up :P). Midway through the trek, our knees started to hurt.  Some of us were already wishing for a jeep to pass by so we could hitch a ride to Refugio. We didn’t have any luck, though.  With the kids in tow, it took us over 2 hours to get to our destination—lunch and a wonderful view.

Lunch was grilled baby beef, Pollo ala Plancha (grilled chicken) and soup. We were already starving by then so I really couldn’t say whether the meal was amazing, because everything tastes good when you are hungry.

After lunch, we could no longer muster the energy and willpower to hike back. And since it would still take long to go on horse-back (although faster than walking), we decided to ride a jeep on the return journey. The kids were not thrilled to have missed the chance to ride a horse, but they had to content themselves by petting the horses and burros and running after the Refugio’s resident peacocks.

I still cannot believe the kids managed that hike! Such troopers they were and they made us very proud with their very few complaints. I also still cannot believe I managed that hike. What a walk in the clouds!