The Beautiful Montmorency Falls

 

Montmorency Falls

Parc de la Chute-Montmorency is about 12 km from the heart of old Quebec City. The falls are at the mouth of the Montmorency River where it drops and flows into the Saint Lawrence River, just opposite Île d'Orleans. As you cross Pont de l'Île from Île d'Orleans, you can see the majestic falls which are 83 m (272') tall--a full 30m (99') higher than Niagara Falls. It was such a beautiful view that we decided to visit the falls.

We paid for parking for about $21 by the bottom of the falls and that gave us access to the other parking area at the top. We walked along the boardwalk and did about a third of the 487 steps of the panoramic staircase.

Panoramic Staircase at Montmorency Falls

We then took the car to the other parking lot at the top of the falls. There you have the Manoir Montmorency which has a gift shop and a restaurant with amazing views of the falls and the river.

There are several attractions within the park which has its own fees. Folks can take the cable car to the top. The adventurous can do the Via Ferrata which has three routes of hiking/rock climbing that involves traversing the rock wall using metal holds and a steel cable. Or, you can also do the zipline across the falls. The less brave (and the tired ones) have several spots to have a nice picnic.

suspension bridge across the Grand Sault, Montmorency Falls

There are supposed to be three falls, the largest being the Grand Sault. We went across the suspension bridge to see the view of the falls from the top. The power of the falls was just spellbinding. As seen in some lovely paintings from the 1870s, the falls are even lovelier in winter. The refreshing mist from the falls (which was great on the hot summer day we went) freezes in winter, accumulating on the cliffs and at the foot of the falls, where it forms what is known as the “Le pain de sucre” (sugar loaf), a natural ice cone.

All in all, a nice place to spend a few hours.

Beaver, chicken, potatoes and a giant orange: eateries in Quebec

 

Quebec City

We hit a few chains in our road trip to Quebec. As you enter Quebec, you will see lots of rotisserie joints. Much like the Swiss Chalet in Ontario, St Hubert was a dependable rotisserie chicken place. Hubby and I shared an order of double leg which made for a nice meal. The chicken was well-cooked and flavourful.

spit roasted St-Hubert chicken

However, we agreed that we liked the chicken at Benny & co more. The chicken was juicy and the skin was crisp after being slow roasted. Super tasty and the sauce matched it perfectly. We took some home so the rest of the fam can try, but it was not as great reheated. The price was also reasonable at just under $10 for a chef’s choice quarter with fries, bread and coleslaw.

3-hour slow roasted chicken @Benny and Co

Of course, what is a trip to Quebec without having poutine? We stopped by La Belle Province for Canada’s (and Quebec’s) main dish. Hubby got a Philly steak poutine while I got a Chili poutine. I was disappointed to find it was not the chili I expected but more of toppings of jalapenos and hot sauce. The poutine was good, but according to DD#2, even bad poutine is good. For almost $15 per plate, I don’t think it was reasonably-priced. Nonetheless, this gave us our poutine fix.

poutine @La Belle Province

Another traditional Canadian treat is BeaverTails. At Queues de Castor, we ordered our usual Bananarama (bananas with Nutella) and tried the Maple Bacon BeaverBites. Pillows of Beavertails dough were topped with maple drizzle and bacon. I don’t think it gets any more Canadian than that! It was so deliciously sinful! But after a few bites, we were so stuffed. We decided we can only take so much of this gooey goodness and that I should have asked for a smaller order. Three of us shared this and we had trouble finishing the whole thing! Still, we were glad to have tried this limited-time treat!

Bananarama and Maple Bacon BeaverBites @BeaverTails

My favorite find in Montreal (and I still crave the Orange Julep now and then!) is Gibeau Orange Julep, with its iconic giant orange. Much like Orange Julius, the refreshing Orange Julep is a creamy orange juice that is frothy, sweet and just satisfying. They even sell it in a jug! It is on the pricey side with a large cup at almost $10. We got some Michigan dogs and burgers which came with fries. The julep was perfect to cut through the grease! Food was not bad either.

Michigan Dog meal @Gibeau Orange Julep

@Gibeau Orange Julep

Those yummy treats did give us extra pounds, but they were so worth it! Bon Appetit!

An island for foodies: Exploring Île d'Orléans

 

@Île d'Orléans

In our last road trip, we crossed the Pont de l'Île suspension bridge off of Quebec city to Île d'Orléans. The island is made up of 6 municipalities with 6 beautiful churches (of which we saw 3) and one main road along the perimeter, the Chemin Royal. We absolutely loved the historic houses especially those with tin roofs!

L'église Sainte-Famille

 We went to several shops along the island-- perfect to get goodies from and assemble a picnic basket. This was what we should have done, and what I recommend, but we did sample/took home the goodies instead.

Create a picnic basket with:

Cheese from Les Fromages de l'isle d'Orléans (Sainte-Famille). They sell the cheese from the recipe of the first cheese ever produced in North America. We tried the iced cheese which is like a sherbet, but made with local cheese, of course. It was pricey but really yummy.

iced cheese @Les Fromages de l'isle d'Orléans

Bread from Boulangerie Blouin (Sainte-Famille). We tried this bakery because it was reputed to be over a century old. If it lasted this long then it must be good, right? We tried the brioche aux fraises (strawberry brioche) and it was good. It was not really to die for but good, nonetheless. They have a wide selection of breads and pastries. It was a bit commercial and I would have preferred something with more of a neighborhood bakery, local feel.

Boulangerie Blouin

Brioche aux fraises @Boulangerie Blouin

Cider from Bilodeau (Saint-Pierre). I had tastings of their lovely iced ciders from the orchard behind the boutique. They keep some bottles refrigerated and even offer some in individual bottles, which are perfect to drink on your picnic. Their vinaigrette and iced cider jelly were also delish!

Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau

You can then bring all your goodies and picnic by Parc-des-Ancêtres de l'île d'Orléans with a view of the Laurentians. Here you can also find La Maison de nos Aïeux (historical center of the île d’Orléans). We didn’t go into this old rectory turned museum which houses information on the founding families of the island.

view of the Laurentians @Parc-des-Ancêtres de l'île d'Orléans 

La Maison de nos Aïeux 

You can get dessert from the chocolateries in the island or have a soft serve blackcurrant ice cream (which I regret we didn’t get to try as we were too full) at Cassis Monna & Filles (Saint-Pierre). A winery with a bistro. Cassis Monna was where we had our lunch of Poutine with duck confit and wine. It was definitely the best poutine we have had. They didn’t skimp on the duck and the flavours of the wine just burst through every bite, with the taste rounding out with the pillowy curds. Sinful and yet heavenly. They have several picnic tables and futons at the back, or you can just sit on the grass to enjoy a glass of wine.

Cassis Monna & Filles

Duck poutine @Cassis Monna & Filles

There are also many wineries, other cideries, even restaurants, on the island! You just have to pick what you want and indulge! This is truly an island for foodies!

Cochon Dingue: dining at Old Quebec

 

Cochon Dingue

We were lucky that we didn’t have to wait long to get a table at Cochon Dingue in Petit Champlain. The place was packed on a weekday lunch but we managed a tiny table for two. The cute pigs on both entrances (on Petit Champlain itself and by the Blvd Champlain) make you want to explore the delights they had to offer. It was a busy diner with fun decorations and a barista space. They also have an extensive menu. Having already had poutine the day before, hubby and I decided to try the menu items marked with the Fleur-de-lis indicating use of local ingredients.

Hubby tried the Black Pudding with Apple Butter and Mustard Sauce. It was also served with vegetables and mashed potatoes. I am not really fond of blood pudding but hubby wanted to get something we don’t usually order. It was just melt-in-your mouth delicious. Am super glad he shared it with me!

Black Pudding @Cochon Dingue

I got the CFC: Fried Chicken “du cochon” which is basically chicken and waffles. It was served with sweet potato fries with a nice aioli and coleslaw. It was good but not quite as yummy (or gourmet) as the pudding.

Fried Chicken “du cochon” @Cochon Dingue

The service was friendly and prompt (though do not expect fast food). All in all, we enjoyed our lunch at Cochon Dingue.

Top Things to do in Old Quebec

Old Quebec

 

Hubby and I explored the streets of Old Quebec on a rainy weekday last summer. There were many boutiques to take cover from the rain. As well, the Museum of Bad Art (MOBA) exhibition was on (coming from Massachusetts) and it turned out to be a great place to wait out the weather! Here are some top things to do and see in the area:

streets of Petit Champlain

1. Petit-Champlain --We parked in one of the many paid public parking areas near the Cruise Port and headed to Petit-Champlain. Petit-Champlain is one of the oldest commercial streets in North America with multiple shops and restaurants to explore. With its European feel and cobblestone paths, it is truly beautiful. The buildings reflect French architecture. Along with the souvenir shops, there were many shops featuring local artisans selling jewelry, art, fudge and more!

Notre dame des Victoires and Place Royale

2. Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church—the oldest stone church in North America. The church was nearly destroyed during the Battle of the Plains of Abraham but is now fully restored. Today, the church is a National Historic Site. Place Royale is the square near the church, where Quebec was officially founded by Samuel de Champlain

Fresque des Québécois

3. Murals—there are a few murals upon the sides of buildings in the city. A notable one is the Fresque des Québécois mural which recounts the story of Québec City and pays homage to historic figures and various authors and artists.

Old Quebec funicular

4. Old Quebec Funicular—We took the funicular (which has been in operation since the 1870s!) for $4/per person one way to go from the Lower Town to the Dufferin Terrace. I think the walk up can be managed, but it may be difficult for others. The ride had a wonderful view of the neighbourhood and of the St. Lawrence River.

Dufferin Terrace

5. Dufferin Terrace—we took a stroll along the long wooden sidewalk located next to the Château Frontenac. It had stunning views of the St. Lawrence River and surrounding area. At the end of the terrace, there is a staircase with several landings to get to the governors' promenade, which runs along the Citadel. The staircase is beside the wooden sledding runs where you can go tobogganing in winter.

Château Frontenac

6. Château Frontenac--In the Upper Town, you will be greeted by the majestic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. This historic, Chateau-style hotel was built by Canadian railway companies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to encourage tourists to travel on their railways and is a National Historic Site. There are many other shops and restaurants as well in this part of the city.

7. La Citadelle is also a couple of kilometers walk from the Frontenac on Cap Diamant. We were here in a trip over a decade ago but did not go here in this trip. The citadel contains the oldest (and still active) military building in Canada, and forms part of the fortifications of Quebec City. Quebec City is one of only two cities in North America still surrounded by fortifications, the other being in Mexico

Going downhill from Upper town--Quebec City

Escalier Casse-Cou

8. Escalier Casse-Cou --On the way down, we walked the winding streets on to Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Steps) to get back to Petit-Champlain. It is said to be the oldest staircase in Quebec City.

Goblin Red Door in Quebec City

9. If you are a K-drama fan, the famous Red Door from the series, The Goblin (Guardian: The Lonely and Great God) is also in Petit-Champlain. It is actually the exit of the Théâtre Petit Champlain.

Museum of Bad Art

10. MOBA--I know this is a temporary installation (only to October 2022), but it was worthwhile to check out and I recommend this if you get a chance to see it—the Museum of Bad Art. There were two floors filled with strange and ugly (to the eyes of the beholder) art. Some works may not have been intended to be awful or even funny, but the descriptions were very witty and downright hilarious!

Would recommend a full day (or two) to explore all the sites Old Quebec has to offer.