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Friday, June 28, 2019

Historical Dining in Paris


We did a lot of research on places to eat and things to try before our trip to Paris. But as with any good plan, we had to learn to wing it. After partly joining a walking tour which began in the Latin Quarter, we ended up near Boulevard Saint-Germain. While figuring out where we were in the map, we found Le Procope, the oldest café in Paris (6th Arrondissement) which opened in 1686. Of course, we had to give it a try (I read it from somewhere!). We managed to get in without a reservation and got a table in the second floor. 

Le Procope, Paris
I ordered the Risotto (from Michelin 3* Chef Frédéric Anton) while the rest of the fam had the Plat du Jour. Grandma had cheese and trout with almonds while the rest got duck terrine and roasted chicken.

My risotto came with crispy artichokes and a fillet of Gilthead bream. I have to say I have had better risotto. It was not exactly creamy as advertised and the bream could be more tender. 

Risotto and bream from Le Procope, Paris
The rest of the dishes were not bad but not to die for, either. The duck terrine was good (albeit not as pretty as the ones we saw in the gourmet food hall of Galeries Lafayette). 

Duck Terrine, Le Procope, Paris
The chicken was not leaps and bounds better than the ones we have had from the neighborhood deli.
Top: Trout; Bottom: Roasted Chicken, Le Procope, Paris

Service was ok and took as long as what we had expected. Still, overall, it was a thrill to find ourselves dining where Rosseau, Voltaire, Napoleon Bonaparte and Victor Hugo (even Benjamin Franklin--among others) dined.

Another over-a-century-old, historic restaurant we tried was the Le Bouillon Chartier when we were over at the 9th Arrondissement. 

Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
It was founded in 1896, in a former train station concourse. The long Belle Époque dining room is classified as a Monument Historique (designation given to some national heritage sites in France). The servers are dressed in the traditional rondin, a tight-fitting black waistcoat with multiple pockets and a long white apron.
We were lucky to get in quickly for lunch. The restaurant is obviously quite popular as there were cordons for lines from the courtyard to the sidewalk outside. Tables are shared between strangers. We shared ours with a gentleman who seemed like a regular.

Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
Hubby and DD#1 had steak with pepper sauce while DD#2 and I had Veal stew. Grandma had frankfurters. We noticed that we never got asked how we wanted our steak done in all the restaurants we have been to. They were all done perfectly. The service was good and quite fast. We had our meals in no time at all! It did not look very appetizing but it was good. Everyone enjoyed their meals. 
Pepper steak and Veal Stew, Le Bouillon Chartier, Paris
The bill was written directly on the disposable paper tablecloth and the price was quite reasonable. It was a nice meal which fueled us for the shopping that awaited in the Grand Magasin (Galeries Lafayette and Printemps).

Another 4-star rated place we checked out was the Café A la Fontaine over at the 16th Arr. The staff spoke English quite well and was nice enough to allow us to share our mains. Having had a snack just recently, we weren’t too hungry but we wanted to get some dinner. DD#2 and Hubby shared a Steak Tartare while DD#1 and Grandma shared a Tagliatelle with squid ink and bream.

Having Italian in Paris
I took another stab at Risotto (I know, I know, not French, but I did not fancy anything else on the menu) but this time with prawns. I should’ve learned but again, the risotto wasn’t amazing. Actually, it was more like paella. Flavours were good, though. Overall, good food, cozy ambience, and good service. We also shared a Mixte platter of charcuterie and cheese which we all enjoyed.

Friday, June 14, 2019

Tips for Top Attractions in Paris

Eiffel Tower, Paris
I will not attempt to list down the major attractions and must-see’s in Paris. You can find so much information on all of these in the internet and guide books. Instead, I will share some tips from each of the top sites. Hope this helps!
  • Eiffel Tower—buy your ticket in advance. While this saves time in line-ups, still be prepared to be at the entrances about 30 or so minutes before your timed-entry. There are long lines to get through security. Also, the first floor is quite nice and under-appreciated. We should have made it our meeting place instead of the second floor. There are many lounge areas and overall more relaxing than the second floor and summit.
Views from the summit, Eiffel Tower, Paris

celebrating 130 years in 2019, first floor, Eiffel Tower, Paris
  • Louvre—the rules for the several entrances change all the time. Just make note of where the entrances are (maps are on the official site/app) and make sure to line up at the right line. Advanced tickets and group reservations help shorten time spent in queue for security. Expect that you won’t get to see them all. Try to spend a day instead of just a few hours to enjoy more collections.

inverted pyramids, Louvre Museum, Paris
  • Montmartre—if taking the metro, I suggest you get off at Anvers if you have a difficult time with stairs. Abbesses stop is the other option but the almost 200 steps to get up are killer. It is the deepest metro station on Paris at 118 ft below ground. You will, however, find the series of murals that line up the spiral staircase very nice and it will lead you to the famous Art Nouveau entrance. (Trivia: Louis Vuitton had a messenger style bag named after the Abbesses station). Souvenir shopping is great at Rue Steinkerque at the bottom of the Sacre Coeur. 
Sacre Coeur Basilica, Montmartre, Paris
  • Notre Dame Cathedral—with the roof ravaged by a 10-hour fire, the area is closed and will remain closed for renovations for years. Still, you can admire the beautiful structure from the outside—the bell towers, flying buttresses and rose window have been saved. Plus, the Latin Quarter is nearby so you don’t have to skip this area if you have some time.
Notre Dame Cathedral under renovation
  • Galeries Lafayette/Paris Opera House—the group of department stores of Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are close to the Opera house. If you are checking out one of these, be sure to check out the other. Galeries Lafayette has an amazing Gourmet Food Hall and has some interactive experiences scheduled every so often so check the sked! When we were there, they had a trampoline set up from the 2nd floor as part of their Funorama event. Take the Glasswalk 16 metres high from the 3rd floor to view the amazing Art Deco dome!
beautiful dome of Galeries Lafayette, Paris

trampoline at Galeries Lafayette, Paris

Glasswalk, Galeries Lafayette, Paris
  •  Arc de Triomphe to Place de la Concorde—suggest you get a day pass for the Metro if you no longer have the stamina to walk another two and a half kilometers from Arc de Triomphe to Place de la Concorde along Champs Elysees. You can also stop at the Grand and Petit Palais. 

Arc de Triomphe, Paris

Obelisk at Place de la Concorde, Paris

While you are near the Grand Palais area, consider checking out the nice permanent collection at Petit Palais. It is free!

Petit Palais, Paris