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Friday, December 15, 2023

Regional Pastries from Portugal: where were these all my life?!

Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem
Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem

When we set out to go to Portugal, I was just looking to try the Pasteis de Nata from the original Pasteis de Belem and croissants from Porto. But that was it. I was so surprised to discover many other pastries from the different regions we went to (and some we didn’t even visit)! 

Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem
Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem

You can find Pasteis de Nata (custard tart), pretty much anywhere, including McDonald’s. Even as we were getting our airport transfers sorted, Grandma got some Pasteis de Nata (custard tart) at Padaria Lisboa at the Arrivals Hall. It was not bad at all. The custard was creamy and pastry was flaky. I would say it would almost match the ones at Pasteis de Belem, where it all began. Each tart is a little over a Euro and, always, cheaper when you buy 6. The Pasteis de Nata at Pasteis de Belem were worth lining up for, but the best ones for the fam were the ones from Manteigaria. The custard was creamier and softer overall. There are several locations and I got some from Rua Augusta. 

Pastel de Nata @Manteigaria
Pastel de Nata @Manteigaria


 I recently rewatched Anthony Bourdain’s Oporto episode and wanted to try the croissants from Porto. He said the Porto croissants were what the French croissants wanted to be when they grow up. I couldn’t find the ones that the internet recommended (or even the one featured in the show). Instead, I got some from Confeitaria Sta. Catarina at Rua Santa Catarina. If you are expecting something like the French croissant (like hubby and the girls), you will be much disappointed as it was more of a brioche. It was also on the sweet side. It was just ok for us and I wish I was able to find a better one that will maybe convince me that the reviews were right. 

Croissant @Confeitaria Sta. Catarina
Croissant @Confeitaria Sta. Catarina


We were walking along the streets of Alfama when we chanced upon Fábrica do Pastel Feijão. It looked interesting so we decided to try it. It was one of the best pastries we’ve had in Portugal, originating from Torres Vedras. It is a pastry with navy bean filling and this particular bakery’s twist is that they use a crunchy caramelized top, reminiscent of a crème brulee. It was just so good. As we were exiting the bakery, there was a walking food tour about to go in. So glad we discovered this! 

Pastel Feijão @Fábrica do Pastel Feijão
Pastel Feijão @Fábrica do Pastel Feijão

On the way to the Sintra train station from the city centre, we were not really on the lookout for any pastries as we have just had dinner. We were looking at the goods that vendors had laid out on mini tables along the cobbled sidewalk. Then I saw Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa and decided, well, I have to try these! I got queijada--a pastry originating from Sintra. It was a nice, light cheese tart with a hint of cinnamon. It reminded us a bit of macaroons. Apparently, in the medieval times, this pie/tart was used as a form of payment. 

Queijadas @Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa
Queijadas @Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa


There are lots of other great pastry shops in Lisbon as well. We got some Diário de D. Inês at Pastelaria Alcôa branch in Rua Augusta. It has its main location in Alcobaça, another city in Oeste region. They pride themselves in making convent sweets in copper containers, following the tradition of the Cistercian monks from the Alcobaça region. The Diário de D. Inês is a crispy pastry with sweet egg yolk  inside. Truly divine and one of our favourites.

Pastelaria Alcôa
Pastelaria Alcôa

Diário de D. Inês @Pastelaria Alcôa
Diário de D. Inês @Pastelaria Alcôa

I thought I had tried what I could try, but as we were waiting for our flight in the airport, we saw Confeitaria Peixinho and got some Ovos Moles which took us to Aveiro. The Ovos Moles consist of a paper-thin wafer filled with a creamy mixture of egg yolks and sugar and typically shaped into maritime symbols such as shells, fish, or barrels. These were just absolutely delicious and a delight to snack on! 

Ovos Moles @Confeitaria Peixinho
Ovos Moles @Confeitaria Peixinho 

I find myself craving these pastries now and then. I mean, where were these pastries all my life? Why did I only discover these now? 

A visit to Little Portugal is in the horizon.