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Friday, April 18, 2025

Castle-hopping in Copenhagen and our favourite castle

Royal Flag @Amalienborg
Royal Flag @Amalienborg

There are three castles in Central Copenhagen which are major attractions. Technically, you can cover these three in one day if you want to pack your schedule. Common hours are from 10 to 5 and if you spend about 2 hours each, take lunch on the go and walk fast (or take transit), then I think it is doable. We were on chill-mode so we did these three over a day and a bit—with other stops in between. I took a quick fam poll and we were all pretty unanimous in our ranking of the castles. First, here are the Copenhagen castles in order of preference. I will reveal at the end, our favourite castle, which is technically not in central Copenhagen.

Rosenborg—we like this 17th century castle, built by one of the most famous Danish kings, Christian IV. 

Rosenborg
Rosenborg 

We walked up the spiral steps and discovered rooms filled with beautiful clocks, armoires, writing tables and other furniture--many of which had an Asian influence. These were so beautifully intricate, definitely screaming royal. 

Armoire at Rosenborg
Armoire at Rosenborg

One of the clocks on display at Rosenborg
One of the clocks on display at Rosenborg

My favourite and possibly one of the main attractions of this castle is the Knights’ Hall with the coronation thrones. These were decorated with narwhal tusks and had three life-size silver lions standing guard. Tapestries on the walls commemorated battles between Denmark and Sweden. Guess who was winning in these battles? The interiors were well-preserved and the castle housed an exquisite collection of Flora Danica, ivory carvings (if you manage to think past the material used) and an amazing Venetian glass collection. In the basement, they had a collection of firearms and wine barrels (not sure if this is a wise combo), leading up to the treasury. In the treasury, we saw the Crown jewels, which was why the castle was watched by actual armed guards. 

Danish Crown Jewels at Rosenborg
Danish Crown Jewels at Rosenborg

Outside the castle, you can find the gardens which was perfect for relaxing and just enjoying a nice afternoon.

King's Garden, Rosenborg
King's Garden, Rosenborg

Christiansborg—was once the royal residence but now houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme court and the Ministry of state. 

Christiansborg
Christiansborg

We visited the Ruins under the castle, the Royal party kitchen which had such an amazing collection of copper cookware and also the Royal Stables, which was home to majestic white (Kladruber) horses. Unfortunately, the Royal Reception rooms were closed at the time. It seemed like there was an official event—it is, after all, where they hold functions and receive foreign dignitaries. It was indeed unfortunate, as from the pictures, it seems that it would have allowed us a glimpse of what we expected palaces to look like—somehow like Versailles (but of course, not nearly as opulent or “golden”).

Ruins under the castle, Christiansborg
Ruins under the castle, Christiansborg


Royal kitchens at Christiansborg
Royal kitchens at Christiansborg

Amalienborg—our least favourite castle, and something we all said we could have skipped. While the history of current King Frederik X was interesting, it was not so much compelling for us to see many of the items in person. 


one of the buildings at Amalienborg
one of the buildings at Amalienborg

We did, however, stay for the changing of the guards at noon. The guards marched from their barracks by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen to Amalienborg. The whole process within Amalienborg took over 20 minutes and while it was interesting, there were many dull moments, wherein, according to DD#2, they were just staring at each other. Hubby and I agreed that the Changing of the Guards in Athens was so much more entertaining! 

changing of the guards at Amalienborg
changing of the guards at Amalienborg

Amalienborg is also close to the marble church, which was so beautiful. Also called Marmokirken or Frederik’s Church, this Lutheran church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31 metres.

Marmokirken
Marmokirken

Our favourite castle (that we have seen in our Denmark trip), was actually about 50 minutes by train away from Central Copenhagen. We took a trip to Elsinore (Helsingør) to visit Kronborg, the setting of Hamlet and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The castle started off as a coastal fortress, Krogen, built by King Eric VII in the 1420s.  In the 1770s, King Frederick II had the medieval stronghold transformed into a magnificent Renaissance castle. 

Kronborg, Elsinore
Kronborg, Elsinore

We took the Hamlet’s tour where we saw the cellar, the beautiful 1580s chapel (with its original interior fully restored), the Royal apartments showing the bedrooms, the well-preserved tapestries and the ballroom, reminding me of many familiar scenes with Kenneth Branagh. 

1580s chapel at Kronborg
1580s chapel at Kronborg


Royal apartments, Kronborg
Royal apartments, Kronborg


ballroom at Kronborg
ballroom at Kronborg

There were a few quotes from our tour guide officially making it a Hamlet tour. If you happen to be here in the summer, I heard they hold live performances of Shakespeare’s plays.  After the tour, the fam (minus Grandma, of course) took 145 steps up to the Cannon tower to take in the beautiful vistas of the sea and the town. We also checked out the kitchen which was less impressive than the Christiansborg kitchens. Hidden deep down under the castle, in the casements, we saw the stone statue of Holger the Dane (Holger Danske). In Danish legend, if Denmark is ever in trouble, Holger will wake from his rock throne under Helsingør and defend her. 

Holger Danske at Kronborg
Holger Danske at Kronborg

The casements were eerie and cold, hosting an extensive series of low-ceilinged dungeons, storerooms and soldiers’ quarters. I did not venture further down to where bats supposedly lived. 

casements at Kronborg
casements at Kronborg

We also no longer went to the barracks/flag bastion as we wanted to catch an early train back to the centre. The castle’s history and preservation/restoration were amazing. This was our favourite castle of the trip and well-worth the day trip!