Regional Pastries from Portugal: where were these all my life?!

Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem

When we set out to go to Portugal, I was just looking to try the Pasteis de Nata from the original Pasteis de Belem and croissants from Porto. But that was it. I was so surprised to discover many other pastries from the different regions we went to (and some we didn’t even visit)! 

Pasteis de Nata @Pasteis de Belem

You can find Pasteis de Nata (custard tart), pretty much anywhere, including McDonald’s. Even as we were getting our airport transfers sorted, Grandma got some Pasteis de Nata (custard tart) at Padaria Lisboa at the Arrivals Hall. It was not bad at all. The custard was creamy and pastry was flaky. I would say it would almost match the ones at Pasteis de Belem, where it all began. Each tart is a little over a Euro and, always, cheaper when you buy 6. The Pasteis de Nata at Pasteis de Belem were worth lining up for, but the best ones for the fam were the ones from Manteigaria. The custard was creamier and softer overall. There are several locations and I got some from Rua Augusta. 

Pastel de Nata @Manteigaria

 I recently rewatched Anthony Bourdain’s Oporto episode and wanted to try the croissants from Porto. He said the Porto croissants were what the French croissants wanted to be when they grow up. I couldn’t find the ones that the internet recommended (or even the one featured in the show). Instead, I got some from Confeitaria Sta. Catarina at Rua Santa Catarina. If you are expecting something like the French croissant (like hubby and the girls), you will be much disappointed as it was more of a brioche. It was also on the sweet side. It was just ok for us and I wish I was able to find a better one that will maybe convince me that the reviews were right. 

Croissant @Confeitaria Sta. Catarina

We were walking along the streets of Alfama when we chanced upon Fábrica do Pastel Feijão. It looked interesting so we decided to try it. It was one of the best pastries we’ve had in Portugal, originating from Torres Vedras. It is a pastry with navy bean filling and this particular bakery’s twist is that they use a crunchy caramelized top, reminiscent of a crème brulee. It was just so good. As we were exiting the bakery, there was a walking food tour about to go in. So glad we discovered this! 

Pastel Feijão @Fábrica do Pastel Feijão

On the way to the Sintra train station from the city centre, we were not really on the lookout for any pastries as we have just had dinner. We were looking at the goods that vendors had laid out on mini tables along the cobbled sidewalk. Then I saw Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa and decided, well, I have to try these! I got queijada--a pastry originating from Sintra. It was a nice, light cheese tart with a hint of cinnamon. It reminded us a bit of macaroons. Apparently, in the medieval times, this pie/tart was used as a form of payment. 

Queijadas @Fabrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa

There are lots of other great pastry shops in Lisbon as well. We got some Diário de D. Inês at Pastelaria Alcôa branch in Rua Augusta. It has its main location in Alcobaça, another city in Oeste region. They pride themselves in making convent sweets in copper containers, following the tradition of the Cistercian monks from the Alcobaça region. The Diário de D. Inês is a crispy pastry with sweet egg yolk  inside. Truly divine and one of our favourites.

Pastelaria Alcôa

Diário de D. Inês @Pastelaria Alcôa

I thought I had tried what I could try, but as we were waiting for our flight in the airport, we saw Confeitaria Peixinho and got some Ovos Moles which took us to Aveiro. The Ovos Moles consist of a paper-thin wafer filled with a creamy mixture of egg yolks and sugar and typically shaped into maritime symbols such as shells, fish, or barrels. These were just absolutely delicious and a delight to snack on! 

Ovos Moles @Confeitaria Peixinho 

I find myself craving these pastries now and then. I mean, where were these pastries all my life? Why did I only discover these now? 

A visit to Little Portugal is in the horizon.

Saints and Sinners: Our day trip to Porto

Porto

We had originally planned to stay in Porto for about 3 days but plans changed and we were only able to manage a day trip. It can be done if you really push it, but be prepared for a lot of walking and speeding through some of the sites. The trip to Porto included an almost 7-hour round trip train ride from/to Lisbon. So, you can imagine it was a packed itinerary.

We started off at the beautiful São Bento station. The São Bento station itself was quite grand with 20,000 azulejos (painted blue tiles) showing scenes of Portuguese history. It was definitely one of the most beautiful stations I have seen (and some claim, in the world!). 

São Bento station

We stepped outside São Bento to explore the city. The churches were just so magnificent, much unlike any we’ve seen. Anywhere. The Ribeira by the Douro river was also beautiful. Here you can see the Dom Luís I Bridge and, across the river, the Monastery of Serra do Pila cannot be missed.

Dom Luís I Bridge, Monastery of Serra do Pila by Douro @Ribeira Square

We marveled at the churches and buildings covered in azulejos. Some of the churches we saw were:

Igreja dos Congregados—as you leave the station on Rua Sa da Bandeira, this church has yellow tiles as well as the standard blue and white ones. It is dedicated to Saint Anthony.

 

Igreja dos Congregados and São Bento station

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso—by Praça da Batalha, this church from the 18th century was quite close to the city centre and can hardly be missed. It stands out with no nearby buildings or structures.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso

Capela das Almas—by Rua Santa Catarina, was the most beautiful I have seen. While it is beside another building, it was still breathtaking. The façade was magnificently wrapped in azulejos depicting lives of saints.

 Capela das Almas

 

Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelita—another beautiful church and looked like the biggest church in the city! It is actually two churches, Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelitas, separated by the narrowest house in Porto (and again, possibly the world). The nuns lived and worked at Igreja dos Carmelitas while the monks at Igreja do Carmo. It’s also close to Livraria Lello bookstore, another famous site (they do charge to get in).

Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelita

We mostly ogled the churches clad in azulejos but the Clérigos Church and Tower deserve a special mention. Also near Livraria Lello, the church is one of the first Baroque churches in the city. Part of the church and one of the most characteristic symbols of Porto is the 75-meter-tall bell tower, the Torre dos Clérigos. The tower has over 200 steps to show the best views of Porto. And of course, it can also be seen from various points of the city.

Clérigos Church

Torre dos Clérigos

Now comes the “sin” part of our trip. In between visiting churches, we indulged in one of the most sinful sandwiches we ever had, Francesinha. Originally from Porto, this sandwich has layers of beef, linguiça (cured pork sausage), salchicha fresca, mortadela, and covered with melted cheese and egg with spiced tomato and beer sauce. It is typically served with french fries. Need I explain more? We had Francesinha at Café Santiago. We managed to get a table at the patio, but the place was packed and had a line up by the time we were done. It was a very heavy lunch and I could not even manage half the fries. It was delicious and definitely sinful. And, we will eat it again!

 

Francesinha  @Café Santiago

Francesinha  @Café Santiago

Another “sin” that I had to get in Porto was Port, of course. Vinho do Porto, is a Portuguese fortified wine produced in the Douro Valley right across the river from Porto. It is typically a sweet red wine (but also comes in dry varieties) and perfect for dessert. One of bottles we got was a Porto Cruz Reserve Ruby. Hubby claims he likes it better than our very own, ice wine. Under the European Union Protected Designation of Origin guidelines, only wines from Portugal are allowed to be labelled "port.” It was a shame we were not able to cross the river to Douro. But that leaves us more to do if we ever get to go back.

 

Port and Ginjinha from Portugal

Porto deserves to be explored in at least 3 days and more to see the Douro side with its wineries. But as our schedule only allowed for a day trip, I am still so glad we made it here, even for just a short time. It was truly worth it and worthy of being a UNESCO site.

 

A fishy experience: bacalhau and sardines in Portugal

 Our fam LOVES seafood. So it was such a delight to be able to visit Portugal and eat seafood in practically every meal!

 

Grilled Sardines @Restaurant Farrol

Pastel de Bacalhau at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau—we first saw this store in Sao Jorge castle. I felt it was such a tourist trap, touting “Portugal Experience” and even offering a combo of Pastel de Bacalhau with Port wine. The prices are also on the expensive side at over Eur5 each. But after seeing the third branch and feeling like I have yet to try an amazing Pastel (called Bolinhos in the North) de Bacalhau, we gave in and got some. And boy, was I glad we did! We bit into the warm and creamy codfish cake with Queijo da Serra in the centre and it was just utterly delicious! Bacalhau (dried, salted cod) is a staple in Portuguese diet from its history of exploration, using salt to preserve the codfish caught during long naval voyages. Interestingly, cod is not native to the coastline of Portugal. The Serra de Estrella cheese from the mountains of Serra da Estrela region was soft and rich and has a protected designation of origin in the EU (like Port). And rightly so, given the rigorous process to make this from sheep’s milk. Whether or not you have the opportunity to try other Pastel de Bacalhau from local bakeries (which we did), I recommend you give this one a try.

made fresh in house Pastel de Bacalhau @Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau

Pasteis de Bacalhau at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau

 

Bacalhau com Natas (salted cod with cream)—a traditional Portuguese dish, Bacalhau com Natas is wonderful comfort food. We tried this at Churrasqueria Lebre, a cafeteria-style joint at Fatima. While there were some big fishbones to watch out for, the dish was very tasty. The fish was moist with chunky flakes easily falling off with the fork. The cream was a nice contrast to the saltiness of the cod. Prices were very reasonable at Lebre and as it is cafeteria-style, it made for fast dining, which is especially important if you have a bus to catch at the nearby station.

Bacalhau com Natas @Churrasqueria Lebre

 Sardines—depending on which reference you trust, Sardines can very well be Portugal’s national fish. It is, after all, and unlike cod, fished (in abundance, so they say) off the shores of Portugal. Canned or tinned sardines are available not just in grocery stores. You can find them at stores selling only sardines. One of the fun places we got some sardines was The Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines (Mundo Fantástico Da Sardinha Portuguesa). There was one right at the Lisbon airport but went to the one in Baixa. They showcase sardines in fun, colourful tins. They feature tins with the year (from 1916 to present) and includes some interesting trivia related to that particular year—a great souvenir. The store itself was a fun place to explore, feeling like a carnival with vibrant staff on hand to assist. There was a variety of flavours (spicy, tomato, olive oil, etc) and even other seafood such as shrimp, octopus and cod.

tinned seafood from Mundo Fantástico Da Sardinha Portuguesa

Mundo Fantástico Da Sardinha Portuguesa

 Grilled sardines—of course we had to try grilled sardines instead of just the tinned ones. We had some at Restaurant Farrol in Alfama. It was a humble dish, nothing pretentious, just the plain, grilled sardines. It had too many tiny bones (that I couldn’t just swallow) so I didn’t quite enjoy it as other meatier fish.

grilled sardines

 

While this is supposed to be about fish, I do have to mention octopus. We usually have octopus either in Takoyaki form or grilled from frozen. Imagine what a delight it was to have it fresh, grilled. Utterly delicious. Cooked well, the octopus was not rubbery at all, but deliciously tender to the bite. We had grilled octopus, octopus salad and even octopus rice from various places such O Corrido in Alfama. Some are tastier than others, and servings vary, of course (the one at Gelo in Baixa was half onions) but we enjoyed all our octopus meals.

grilled octopus @O Corride

octopus rice @Restaurant Farrol

 

I did have to try the bifana (pork sandwich) and, of course, Francesinha. I cannot yet abandon my love for red meat, but I will take seafood any day in a heartbeat.

Neighborhoods of Lisboa

 

Alfama, Lisbon

The hilly roads and being not quite where the action was, were some reasons we were initially hesitant to stay in Alfama area during our trip to Lisbon. However, our location ended up to be great for us, being close to the trains we needed to take for our day trips and away from the noisy bars when the fam wanted to rest in the evenings. Alfama is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Lisbon that was not heavily damaged in the earthquake/tsunami of 1755 that practically flattened the other areas. During the Moorish occupation, Alfama was a poor area populated by fishermen. Today, it is a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets and steps where the architecture was kept intact. No skyscrapers are in sight, no modern structure distract from its charm. During the day, we marveled at the cobbled streets, some showing some design or pattern and we looked in awe at the building facades decked with azulejos. Some evenings, sounds of Fado music from the quaint cafes float its melancholic beauty through the neighborhood.  

streets of Alfama

azulejos-clad building being restored

We spent a couple of days in Alfama and Baixa-Chiado area. For most of the time, we walked or took transit. But we also booked a TukTuk tour to be able to cover more ground and take us through steep hills. We also did as tourists do and took the Tram 28 which took us on a scenic ride across the city.

one of many TukTuks in Lisbon

the historic Tram 28

Some of the things to see:

Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral)—also called, Santa Maria Maior, is the oldest church in the city. It is a beautiful church built in the 12^th century which has survived earthquakes, and battles and has been restored several times. This is open to the public but there is a fee to tour the cloisters.

 

Sé de Lisboa

Across from the cathedral is the Igreja Santo Antonio (Church of St. Anthony) which is dedicated to Portugal’s patron saint, Saint Anthony. There you can find the crypt which marks where he was actually born. A painted tile also showcases the visit of St. Pope John Paul II to this crypt.

 

 Igreja Santo Antonio

Church of Santa Engrácia (Now National Pantheon)—originally a church from the 17^thC where construction began and was not completed until the 20^thC. It is now the Panteão Nacional where important Portuguese personalities are buried, including presidents, writers, singers and of course, football players.

 

Panteão Nacional

Near the Pantheon and every Tuesday and Saturday, they have the flea market (Feira da Ladra) where sellers display their goods on small tables or on blankets along the square. It is said that markets such as these have been in existence from the 12^thC. There are artisan goods and jewelry, ceramic ware, antiques, books, clothes, coins, and even azulejos tiles (which are protected and supposedly can only be sold under special permits). Some police roam the area to keep the peace but it seemed quite safe to us. The colorful work of André Saraiva stands in the background by the wall of the Jardim Botto Machado.

 

mural @Feira da Ladra

Roman ampitheatre—close to the Lisbon cathedral, the Teatro Romano de Lisboa features unearthed ruins of the ancient Roman ampitheater. It is also free to visit!

 

Teatro Romano de Lisboa

Castelo de São Jorge--The medieval Castle of Sao Jorge stands atop the hills of Alfama. The fortified walls are quite imposing. They were able to preserve the towers and the castle boasts a wonderful viewpoint of the city. 

 

entrance to Castelo de São Jorge

If you are not able to make it to the castle, some of the areas with beautiful vistas are:

Miradouro das Portas do Sol—has panoramic city views where you can see the traditional red roofs and churches of Alfama.

 Miradouro da Graça—one of the city’s famous hills on the border of Graça and Alfama showing fantastic views of the city rooftops and the Tagus river. Some of the beautiful sights you can see include the Ponte 25 de Abril (25 de Abril Bridge) where cars and trains can cross over the river. And across to Almada, you can also can catch a glimpse of the Christ the Redeemer statue (inspired by the one in Rio de Janeiro) which is the monument of the Santuário de Cristo Rei shrine dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus Christ. By the viewing area, you will find one of Lisbon’s oldest churches, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Mountain, from the 13^thC.

 

city views from  Miradouro da Graça

Chapel of Our Lady of the Mountain

In Baixa-Chiado, we started from Rossio square area. We walked through some of the bustling stores in Chiado down to Rua Augusta. A mix of restaurants, stores, bakeries flank Rua Augusta culminating in the Arco da Rua Augusta (Rua Augusta arch) on the Praça do Comércio. The arch commemorates the city's reconstruction after the Great earthquake.

Rossio Square

 

Chiado area

the pink street, Lisbon

Arco da Rua Augusta

This area is more cosmopolitan and here you can find stores of some of the popular European brands and as well many of the goodies you would like to get (pasteis de nata, pastel de bacalhau, souvenirs, and more). Tourists abound in this area and the streets are quite busy with patios of restaurants and cafes. In Rua Garrett, you can also find the oldest bookstore in operation. Bertrand Bookshop was first built in 1732 but was reconstructed along with the rest of Lisbon after the 1755 Earthquake.

Baixa is the lower part while Chiado is the higher part of the area. You can walk or take the Elevador de Santa Justa (Santa Justa Lift), a historic elevator originally designed to help locals navigate Lisbon’s hilly streets.

Elevador de Santa Justa

 We couldn’t leave Lisbon, and Alfama, without catching a Fado show. We booked a (cash-only) prix fixe dinner and show at O Corrido, across the National Pantheon. While a bit on the pricey-side, the 3-course meal with choice of appetizer, main dish and dessert was delicious. The Fado music was truly wonderful. The Fado genre is characterized by melancholic songs about longing, fate, destiny, typical of what the people would sing when their sailors went out to sea (especially during the maritime voyages). O Corrido featured 3 Fado singers, each doing a set of 3-4 songs. The music was just so moving and the melody just cuts through even if we could not understand the lyrics.

 

@OCorrido, Alfama

It was our first trip to Portugal. We made Lisbon our home base and went to several day trips from there. Our itinerary was packed and yet there were still so many more places to explore! And while we thought we were only going to visit this place maybe once, we really hope to visit many more times in the future. Eu amo Lisboa!

 

Visiting UNESCO World Heritage (and other) Sites in Portugal

Jerónimos Monastery (Hieronymites Monastery) in Belém

There were a few places we wanted to see in Portugal when we started planning our trip.  But as we researched on things to do and places to see, we were pleasantly surprised to discover there was so much to do in Portugal. And as it turned out, we could have used a few extra days. We had a packed itinerary, mostly doing day trips from Lisbon to these fabulous sites.

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designates World Heritage sites for having "cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity" (https://whc.unesco.org/en/about/)

 Here are some of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites we visited and how to get there:

 

Luiz I Bridge, and Monastery of Serra do Pilar from Ribeira Square

 

Jerónimos Monastery (Hieronymites Monastery) —We got the Lisboa card for the trip to Belém. The card covers transit and as well admission to Jerónimos Monastery (and Belém Tower among other attractions). No need to line up to get tickets. Just show/scan your Lisboa card at the entrance. Jerónimos Monastery is a former monastery of the Order of Saint Jerome, commissioned by King Manuel. The monks were tasked to pray for the voyagers and the king. It is one of the most beautiful structures I have seen. Why have I never heard about this before? Now, it is something I will never forget and will be difficult to top in my list of most amazing structures. The interiors were so intricately carved, and the columns even have individual designs (coil rope, sea motifs, etc). I could not get enough pictures and yet those I have cannot seem to do it justice. We were very lucky that there were not a lot of people at that time, so it added to the serenity of the place. It was just utterly majestic, and I can imagine it was a perfect place for contemplation. Right outside, is the Santa Maria de Belém Church, another beautiful church where the tomb of Vasco de Gama lies. This is worth seeing. There is no admission fee to this church.

To get here: tram, bus or tuktuk from Lisbon centre

 

Jerónimos Monastery

Jerónimos Monastery

tomb of Vasco de Gama @Santa Maria de Belém Church

While not UNESCO sites, you may want to visit other places and attractions in Portugal.

As you are already in the Belém area, you may want to check out the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). This is just a block away from the monastery. There is an underpass to get to the other side.

Monument to the Discoveries

 Tower of Belém—from the 16^th C, built using lioz limestone to commemorate Vasco da Gama's expedition and stands to remind us of the great powerhouse that Portugal was during the Age of Discoveries. Here you are supposed to scan your Lisboa card by the ticket booth/kiosk in the park before going to the boardwalk to the tower. The tower had only one narrow staircase and 93 steps to get through 4 floors. The line-up was mostly to wait for your turn to pass through the staircase. It is not handicap accessible. The ground floor had many windows, cannons and pits where the prisoners were thrown into. The exterior was quite ornate, and the interiors boasted vaulted ceilings and a balcony with a killer view.

To get here: walk, tram, bus or tuktuk from Jeronimos Monastery. You have to cross the overpass

Torre de Belém

from the bastion of Torre de Belém

from the balcony of Torre de Belém

ribbed ceilings of Torre de Belém

cannons of Torre de Belém

 Other attractions you may want to check out that are not UNESCO sites include:

At Belém--the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum). It has such a fantastic collection of ornate ceremonial coaches and horse-drawn carriages. Such a delight to find these were very well preserved. This is near the Belém tram/bus stop.

Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum)

Fátima is a little over an hour drive from Lisbon.It is a Catholic pilgrimage site where you can see The Capelinha das Aparições (marking the spot of the apparition of the Virgin Mary in 1917 to three shepherd children, 2 of whom have already been canonized—St. Francisco and Sta. Jacinta. Sister Lucia’s beatification and canonization is in progress). Other sacred sites include the Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, and the modern church of Igreja da Santíssima Trindade. While we no longer visited these, other sites in Fatima include museums and the houses of St. Francisco, Sta. Jacinta and Sister Lucia. If you stay to the evening, there is a vigil procession. Masses and rosaries are said in several languages throughout the day.

You can take the bus or join a tour to get here.

Capelinha das Aparições (on the left) and Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário (center), Fatima

Igreja da Santíssima Trindade

tombs of Sto. Francisco and Sta. Jacinta

And the last Heritage site we visited was-- 

Sintra—the Cultural Landscape of Sintra is designated as the UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 19^th century, Ferdinand II turned the ruins of a monastery into a castle showcasing Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance elements all rolled into Romantic architecture—this is the Pena Palace. Nestled in the peaks of the mountains of Sintra, the multicoloured palace is quite unlike anything we have seen. It seems to be straight off of fairy tales. We took the tram to get to the Palace, which we highly recommend. However, we no longer went inside the palace as we only had a day to explore Sintra. There have been mixed reviews on the internet on whether going inside is worth it.  Surrounding the palace is a park and gardens with local and exotic foliage. Several ponds dot the park, connected by winding paths. You can pretty much explore just the park all day. It features stables and greenhouses among other attractions. It does require lots of walking, but the trails were just beautiful and peaceful. Plan for cooler climates in the area. Note: Sintra’s attractions are discounted with Lisboa card.

To get here: 40-minute train ride from Rossio (or Oriente station) or you can also take the bus. You can then take the local bus or tuktuk to get around.

Pena Palace, Sintra

Pena Palace, Sintra

Parks of Pena Palace

 About a 10minute walk from the Pena Palace is the Moorish Castle, a medieval castle on the peaks of the Sintra mountains. It is said to be from the 9th century, built during the Moorish occupation. The ruins are a magnificent fortress with still-standing turrets that can be explored. It does require physical exertion so be prepared for a lot of walking and climbing huge (and sometimes narrow) stone steps. Again, it felt like it was just out of the storybook. The views of the city from the Moorish castle were just magnificent.

view of Sintra

 Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros)

 Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros)

 Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros)

 You can walk a little over a kilometer, take the local bus or get on a tuktuk down to the city centre where you can find the National Palace (said to be a favourite destination of Portuguese monarchs) and Quinta de Regaleira (a 16^th century Renaissance-style manor). The shops and restaurants are also in the city center. From here, you can easily walk back to the train station. There are many other attractions in Sintra. I suggest you take a couple of days for this.

 National Palace of Sintra

Quinta da Regaleira

There are so many other sites to see, but so little time for us. There are, after all, a total of 17 World Heritage Sites in Portugal to date, with 19 more being evaluated.