Cesky Krumlov: a fairy tale land

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We wanted to see another UNESCO World Heritage site so we took a day trip from Prague to Cesky Krumlov. It was a 3-hour bus ride (you can also take the train) in the south of the Bohemia region. It was so picturesque and seemingly still unspoiled. It was not crowded and very, very charming. It was like being in a fairy tale land. We were so glad we chose to visit this place! Other day trip options from Prague were Kutna Hora (with the Bone Chapel) or Terezin (concentration camp).

We had lunch at the cozy Travellers’ Restaurace restaurant. It was good value for money compared to the pricey restos in Prague! I had Pork roast in dark beer, cabbage, and potato dumplings. Hubby had Grilled Pork Neck with mustard. Of course, when in the Czech Republic, we had to have beer. We had the 11 degrees Kozel, dark beer, which I really liked.

Pork roast and potato dumplings @Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We walked around the old town by the very charming Main Square. 

streets of Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Main Square, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Near the castle, in the bear pit which used to be a moat, we saw Maria Theresa, their 24 yr old-resident bear. 

Maria Theresa, the bear @Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We also saw folks river rafting/canoeing on the Vlatava river, which wraps around the town center. 

canoeing/rafting by Vlatava river, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Mostly we walked along the cobbled paths checking out quaint stores. 

streets of Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We didn’t have time to tour the inside of the castle (as we only had 6 hours there) but we did a walking tour with a great local guide (Wiseman Free tours) and learned a lot about the history of Cesky Krumlov. We also saw a less grand version of the St. Vitus cathedral.

part of the Cesky Krumlov castle, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We walked outside the castle, along the frescoed walls of the courtyards. While we did have a bit of time to see the castle interiors (before the walking tour), the English tours were limited and we couldn’t manage the next available schedule. At the end of the walking tour that we did take, we explored the castle gardens with its fountains and maze and, of course, we checked out the Open-Air Theatre with the revolving auditorium.

inside the courtyard of the Cesky Krumlov Castle, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Castle Gardens, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Revolving theatre, Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

We got a couple of iced coffees before heading for the bus stop. The old town was within walking distance to the bus station. While it was a full day, the crowds were not so overwhelming and it was a pleasant excursion. After all, how can being in a storybook be tiring?

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

Prague: Old and New Town

night scene of Prague Castle and Charles Bridge, Prague, Czech Republic

Using our day pass, we explored both the New Town and Old Town. This time we used a self-guided walking tour which we had printed out. We pretty much followed the route and started off with the National Museum by the Duke Wenceslas (from the “Good King” Christmas carol) statue. 

National Museum and Duke Wenceslas statue,  Prague, Czech Republic

Nearby, we also saw the Communist Era building and State Opera. We walked along Wenceslas square. 

Communist Era building,  Prague, Czech Republic

Unlike the historic Old Town, nearly all the buildings were from the past two centuries. Here are some buildings to note:

• We saw some beautiful Art Nouveau buildings such as the yellow Grand Hotel Evropa.
• We also saw the Marks and Spencer building with the balcony from the historic November 1989 revolution.
• The Art Deco Lucerna Arcade displays the sculpture called Wenceslas Riding an Upside-Down Horse hanging from a glass dome in the middle of the mall. 

Černý's Wenceslas Riding an Upside-down Horse

• Another 1930’s souvenir is the stained-glass window advertising Tesla, the radio manufacturer.

1930's stained glass window advertisement,  Prague, Czech Republic

• Through the Franciscan Garden, we went to the St. Mary of Snows Church. We took a peek (as it was closed) into its elegant interiors.
• Past Jungmann Square, we browsed through the multiple floors of the Bata shoe store (founded over 120 years ago in the Czech Republic). They had the good quality Bata shoes as well as other brands for sale. I have to say that it did take quite a bit of discipline not to go shopping. We had very little space left in our luggage!

By this time, we had already hit the end of the square by Mustek and the Old City Wall.

We walked to the Old City and explored areas we have not yet seen:

• Church of St. James—the church interiors were very beautiful and it housed the wooden Pieta from the 15^th century. What I will not forget from this church, though, was seeing the shriveled-up hand hanging by a chain from above, by the door. According to legend, a thief tried to rob the Madonna from the altar but his hand was frozen when he touched the statue. The monks had to cut off his hand to get it to let go of the statue. It now hangs in the church as a warning.

Church of St. James, Prague, Czech Republic

• House of the Black Madonna—this Cubist building is remarkable in the way that it stands out and yet mixes with its surroundings. It has a café and a gallery to showcase this movement. Of course, on the side of the building, you will see the Black Madonna.

House of the Black Madonna, Prague, Czech Republic

• Havelská market—offering various crafts and produce, but mostly souvenirs. The goods are not limited to Czech products and has its share of rude sellers.
• Estates Theatre (featured in the film, Amadeus) which premiered (and still currently runs) Mozart’s Don Giovanni

Estates Theater, Prague, Czech Republic

• Carolinium—heart of the Charles University

Other buildings to note:

• Powder Tower—connected to the Old Town Square via Celetná street (one of the oldest streets in Prague filled with many buildings with striking facades). This was the main gate of the Old Town wall and used to house the city’s gunpowder.

Powder Tower, Prague, Czech Republic

• Municipal House—dubbed the “pearl of Czech Art Nouveau,” this elaborate building has a restaurant and a hall for concerts. At the time we were there, they also exhibited Mucha’s Slav Epic (a series of large canvasses depicting the history of the Czechs and other Slavic peoples).

So many beautiful buildings to take in one day. Prague definitely goes down as one of my favourite cities.

Prague Castle and the Mala Strana (Lesser Town)

St Vitus Cathedral, Prague, Czech Republic

On our first full day in Prague, we were up early to get to the Prague castle. We took the tram 22 from Malostranka and got off at the castle stop. There was a bit of a line up to get tickets but it moved along quickly enough. We got the shorter tour which included St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George's Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower and got an audio guide.

I cannot even begin to describe St Vitus Cathedral. There are simply no words for its grandeur. In my opinion, this cathedral is as grand as St. Peter’s. It was just SO BEAUTIFUL. But then again, I am partial to Gothic architecture (inside, though, you will see other styles such as Baroque and Renaissance). This church immediately confirmed to me why Prague should be called the city of a hundred spires. Built over 600 years it was where religious services and coronations took place. It also houses the Baroque silver tomb of St John of Nepomuk, the Chapel of St Wenceslas, and the Art Nouveau stained glass by Alfons Mucha, among many treasures. This was one cathedral among the many beautiful ones we saw in our trip that we really explored.

We then breezed through the Old Royal Palace and St. George’s Basilica to spend more time at the Golden Lane. I loved walking along the tiny houses lining the walls of the castle, giving us a glimpse of living during the medieval times. Famous writer Franz Kafka once lived on house 22. 

Golden lane, Prague castle area, Prague, Czech Republic

We then checked out the various armors and torture devices on display above the houses before looking at the prisons of the Daliborka Tower.

Daliborka tower, Prague castle, Prague, Czech Republic

The rest of the day, we took a hop on hop off ride using the Tram 22 with our day pass. We went first to the Strahov Monastery to catch some nice views and get some beer at the Klášterní pivovar Strahov (a 17^th century brewery which was now a craft-brewery, Sv Norbert).

view from Strahov Monastery grounds, Prague, Czech Republic

Strahov Brewery, Prague, Czech Republic

 Taking the tram again, we went to the Lesser Town to the Church of our Lady Victorious, the home of the statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague. After saying our prayers, we went to the exhibit upstairs to view the various robes from all over the world. We also went to the store selling religious articles just beside the church.

Church of our Lady Victorious, Prague, Czech Republic

We had a couple of other stops—one for trdelnik (like the Hungarian 

kürtőskalács) which was pretty much like the Hungarian version and yummily clad in cinnamon and sugar! With all that walking, we justified a second dessert and had another stop for ice cream. We hopped off at Újezd for some Angelato ice cream. We had a scoop of coffee gelato and it was delicious. I can see why it would be one of the best ice cream places in Prague.

The last stop we did for the day was at the base of Petřín Park where we saw the Memorial to the Victims of Communism. We walked further along to take the funicular to the top of Petřín Hill. 

funicular at Petrin, Prague, Czech Republic

At the summit, there are gardens, an observatory and the tower. A short walk from there and it was the Strahov monastery. We had made it around. So we went back down via the funicular and just walked through Josefov (Jewish Quarter), on to Charles Bridge to Old Town. As if we had not yet been overwhelmed with the amazing structures we saw this day, we encounter yet another beauty. The Charles bridge was the most beautiful we have seen. It crosses the Vlatava river and its construction began in the 1300s. I didn’t count but there are supposedly 30 statues along the bridge. It was not as crowded as it would have been in the morning so we took a nice stroll.

Charles bridge, Prague, Czech Republic

It was a lot to do in a day and it would be great to take things at a slower pace, but it can be done—10,000 steps target—checked and almost tripled!

Prague—getting oriented in Staré Mesto (Old Town)

Our Lady before Tyn, Praque, Czech Republic

We arrived in Prague on a train from Vienna close to noon. As the Palladium mall in Old Town was close to our hotel (and it was extremely hot-- which made airconditioned malls quite enticing), we decided to have lunch there. We decided to eat at Old Prague Czech restaurant for some Czech cuisine.

Hubby and I shared some goulash in a bread bowl and a 1kg roasted pork knee. Of course, even if we were not beer-drinkers, we were in Prague so we had to get some beer. We got some Staropramen (second largest brewery in the Czech Republic) which was quite good. Of course, we were stuffed, but since the meal was not equally shared (haha), I had some space for sausage at the market for dinner later on.

Roasted Pork Knee, Old Prague restaurant, Praque, Czech Republic

We joined another free tour, having had a great experience in Bratislava, this time for Discovery Free Tours. It was just okay for me as I didn’t learn as much but it did help in getting us acquainted with the sights around town. We just took in the Old Town Square. In one end stood the Jan Hus memorial and everywhere I looked, I wanted to take a photograph. The structures were beautiful all around with the Our Lady Before Tyn, Town Hall with its Astronomical Clock and pretty much every other building was postcard-worthy. Thing was, there were just too many people.

We got some tickets from the Via Musica box office beside the church (Our Lady Before Tyn) to catch a concert (featuring music of Bach, Handel, Vivaldi and Mozart) at the St. Nicholas church in the evening. The music was wonderful, as can be expected. 

inside St Nicholas church, Praque, Czech Republic

There's so much to see and do in Prague!